From a Ohlins FG8861 2002 set of forks.

The springs in there which are original. I know this because I'm the second owner and the first owner would never have changed them (well highly unlikely, he wasn't that kind of guy and he was of average weight)....are 240mm long, 37mm wide and have no markings.

Am I right in think that the spring rate will be 9.5?

With these springs I was maxed out on preload (15.5 turns) and hitting 38mm laden sag. So not ideal.

I rang Brook suspension and he sold me a set of K-Tech springs - 10 n/mm this time - but they are 260mm long and 35mm wide.

https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/aprilia-rsv-1000-r-factory-k-tech-fork-springs-03-10" rel="nofollow - https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/aprilia-rsv-1000-r-factory-k-tech-fork-springs-03-10

He said don't worry about the link saying factory. He also said that he's sold thousands of Ohlin springs and they are all 260mm long.

Fitting them isn't possible. Well it will require some sort of preload spacer compression rig set-up. So I didn't bother. It's not right.

Please can anyone confirm the oem springs for my bike - I'm sure brook suspension must be wrong - I'm calling in the morning.

these ones here for a mille 98-03 state 288mm long - that's 48mm longer!!!!

Maybe this is all I need. A 9.5 as per oem but just 20mm longer???

Camngetit what spring rate is yours?

You would normally need some sort of spring compressor but have you asked if the spacer needs shortening to fit their springs?   It's not unknown when purchasing aftermarket suspension kit and certainly wouldn't be that unusual as springs are pretty universal and different model forks have different requirements.Ie all the std Showas I have are different internally to that shown in the official workshop manual as regards spacers.

If the spacer tube is too long you might possibly end up with a coilbound spring on full compression if you do manage to get the top cap on.

Suspension shops will sell you springs and some other less techy stuff to fit yourself but I know Ktech for one insist on fitting their valving themselves or at least have one of their agents do it because it sometimes needs specialist knowledge and tools and sometimes other things modding first to make aftermarket kit possible.

Perhaps they've assumed you know what you're doing and would size accordingly?  I don't know the answer in this case,just wondering out loud.

Sorry,on reflection that didn't come out the way I meant it to and I honestly don't mean to sound condescending. I'm sure if you give them a call they'd set you straight on what's needed to fit what they supplied

Playing with suspension internals is great fun and can lead to many fascinating journeys into the unknown ( lots of them dead ends ) but it's definitely made easier if you have access to at least a compressor and a few other tools.

I will have a look on the box tomorrow 

The spacer being too long had occurred to me.  Something to discuss with brook. 

Not taken your post as condescending. I appreciate the honest thought process. 

What I would love to know is the standard oem ohlins spring length 

Is it 240mm on a 2002/3 rsvr?

Sorry I can't answer that one Andy,I'm still using the poverty spec Showas

Although they're now reconned and fitted with SKF green seals & wipers and full Ktech valving and also Kteck clicking compression adjusters which actually have a decent taper needle with a full range of adjustment.

The spring rate is still under consideration though,as like you I found my preload needed to be fully down to get decent rider sag figures and this results in zero static sag so I think I'll also be investing in some increased rate springs as well.

My take on it is the oe Showa springs are suitable for skinny Italians and some svelte normal Brits only, the ahem, larger built amongst us are outside the normal range of the spring and most of the harshness and stiffness riders put down to the spring being too stiff is actually the appalling damping curve built into the cartridges.

The compression stack is like an on/off switch for the high speed circuit and the low speed bypass is so abrupt only the first turn or so out from fully in actually does anything due to the short,stubby taper.

I'm interested in how you get on with new springs though so keep us informed please? This is the sort of thing I find fascinating.

I will keep you informed. 

My only worry is it will be spring time (see what I did there?) 2023 that I get an answer to this

Thanks spoonz. What I thought but nice to have confirmed 

I would think Brookes or failing that Ktech themselves would confirm any mods needed although Ktech themselves seem a bit fussy about who they sell to and may not want to talk to end users.

I believe Harris were the same if you asked them about OE Ohlins kit, I was told their standard response at one time was 'F*kc Off and bother a dealer'  as they only wanted to talk about the proper Road & Track Ohlins. 

That could be just an urban myth though

Since I was pretty close to my desired laden sag with a 240mm spring, and I told him he was wrong about the oem spring length being 240 (not 260) - he agrees that the spring he sold me isn't right!

They don't have any 240mm springs that are suitable. They only have 1 at 240 long.

So anyone know where I can get one?

good old eBay - What are YSS springs like? could I really put a gsxr part in my beautiful mille?

These are whats in mine although when i took this pic i noticed on the box it had written on it     stand ohlins rsvr2002    didnt notice that before 

Thanks for that. Those are 36mm od and 260 long and 10 spring rate. Pretty much what I have but mine are 35mm od. 

How much do you weigh with all your gear on? If you’re getting good sag readings and your preload has some adjustment both ways and you say it rides fine - with my limited knowledge I would say you have the correct springs.  

How did you screw the top cap on? Have you got a spring compressor tool? Did you have a helper push the spring down while you fiddled about?

camngetit wrote: Must admit this is making me wonder if i have the wrong springs in mine as j know the ones in are defo longer than the oem ones although it rides fine done 4 trackdays but now i need to know lol i got mine through apworkshops

Do you still have your full travel available?

If so I suppose it's all good as long as your static and total sag measurements are ok

Problems could arise if the spring/spacer combo is too long in total as you COULD possibly end up coilbound before reaching normal travel limits.

I'm thinking with the increased spring rate you may not venture near full compression too often but it would be comforting to know before it potentially happens when landing the front hard say.

This is why I find the whole subject fascinating,one thing changed has a ripple effect throughout the whole action,and this is before you start playing with the valves or shim stacks and air gaps.

Obviously the stiffer spring rate is working for you as it should,you could perhaps try backing off both the rebound and compression to zero and then try and do a stoppie and see where the cable tie sits?

If you still get previous travel just return all settings to before and carry on riding with a smile

If it bottoms out before the cable tie hits it's previous maximum travel then you have the option of shortening the spring or spacer,personally I'd think about the spacer rather than the spring.