Technical Chat - GEN 2 RSVR Willinto learn mods topic

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GEN 2 RSVR Willinto learn mods topic

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Category: RSV / RSVR / FACTORY
Forum Name: Technical Chat
Forum Description: Any technical problems or useful advise for other owners, remember this is just advice posted here, if you make something go BANG in a big way don't take anyone to court about it.
URL: http://www.rsvr.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=29753
Printed Date: 26 Mar 2026 at 23:09
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Topic: GEN 2 RSVR Willinto learn mods topic

Posted By: Willintolearn
Subject: GEN 2 RSVR Willinto learn mods topic
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 15:02

First mod done:

Soldered the clutch jet and drilled 0.4mm hole - easy.

Second mod thought to be done - now found out it’s on half done:

Brown connectors - eliminated the one nearest to the reg/rec but cannot get enough slack to sort the other one near the vee.

Question:

Is there enough length on the reg/rec section of the wiring to feed back through the vee then eliminate the vee connector on the stator side then feed it back through the vee?

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Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.

Replies:

Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 15:29

Depending on if its the oem stator. I had mine re wound by West Country windings and they put a large tail on it but I'm not certain if it's original.

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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 16:04

Thanks badapple.

I’ve seen a few examples of long tails on replacements but suspect this (presumably) oem one has, irritatingly, just enough to reach to the far side of the vee only.

Looks like I’ll be feeding wire soldered to the stator section through the vee and then pull the reg/rec length through and then solder stator to reg/rec section on the stator side then pull the birds nest back though the vee.

Good job there’s going to be plenty of rainy days to achieve this.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 16:22

Third mod - work around:

I suspect the PC3 USB was set up with the redline at the default 6000 rpm.

Having now set the redline to 10500 rpm I found that there was a chasm of a dip at 6000 rpm……after a short learning session on the Dynojet site I checked the (now) mid-range fuelling and found it to be very rich so dialled it back by 2 steps, result: very minor dip at around 6000 rpm and able to pull through it easily. I am hoping that 1 more step off the PC3 midrange will eradicate the dip completely.

Anybody else experienced this?

I can’t see that there’s anything else influencing this as the bike pulls smoothly from 2000 rpm to the (now) red line at 10500.

Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 19:34

The red light is just a shift light.

The hard ‘red line’ or rather limiter is at 11k or 11.5k I think it is off hand. I forget now as it’s been a while since riding a Gen2.

I’d disconnect the PC3 to see if it has an issue and ride the bike to see if there is a dip or not.

Does the bike have open cans and a free flow filter or open airbox? If so, it could be on Map1 still perhaps. If you’ve exhaust and filter mods it should be on Map2 ideally. The dip could be badly set up throttle bodies also.

Ref the brown mod connector did you test the stator and reg/rec first? If over or under charging they can make the bike feel hesitant and jumpy around 4-6k. Take the tank off and throttle bodies and you may see you can move the second connector about a bit to give you the wriggle room. I did with my race bike and had plenty of cable to play with. The stator was also located further down than the oem mount so you may find you will be lucky.

Oh and take the fuel pump out and replace the fuel filters. Definitely the inline one and you may be able to. Lean the tea bag style one out with fresh fuel

-------------
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike
Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike
Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020
www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apworkshops.co.uk

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 22:42

wigginsjp wrote:

The red light is just a shift light.

The hard ‘red line’ or rather limiter is at 11k or 11.5k I think it is off hand. I forget now as it’s been a while since riding a Gen2.

I’d disconnect the PC3 to see if it has an issue and ride the bike to see if there is a dip or not.

Oh and take the fuel pump out and replace the fuel filters. Definitely the inline one and you may be able to. Lean the tea bag style one out with fresh fuel

Thanks for the reply, Wigginsjp

PC3: coincidental, maybe? Think I’ll take your advice and disconnect.

Actually it might be better if I zero map it - see if there’s a further difference - then disconnect…..just another pointer?

I must admit to not fully investigating what’s been done to it and am slowly going though it - bit by bit.

Charging/holding charge is good - I will ignore the comedy dash voltmeter and double check my own readings though.

I hadn’t suspected the throttle bodies as it is smooth at tickover or, maybe I’m just stuck in the ‘carb’ way of thinking? It was certainly a lot smoother and more responsive, lower down in the rev range, than the Tuono I test rode back-to-back on the same day.

One thing I do suspect is that it was set up without the baffles in the Akras - hence its now rich and therefore less ‘lumpy’ but…..there is no hesitation when, erm, riding in a spirited fashion.

Feel free to tell me I’m talking a load of old twaddle - like I say - willin to learn.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2022 at 01:58

Update:

Clutch jet = 0.4mm

What a difference - easy neutral finding - even when the engine reached the fan on temperature.

Easier/more consistent biting point. Yes! I know it’s all been said before but, it’s made a good machine even better.

Plans:

1. Purchase chromed hardened rod to act as a poor man’s abba stand.

2. Dismantle dog bone and links plates for bearing inspection and greasing.

3. Start fiddling with suspension settings - current set up is ok but is for someone a tad heavier than me. Compared to my old 7R it turns slower, rebounds too quickly and there is little or no feeling when riding in the wet - or slowly - for that matter.

COMFORT MODS:

4. (A) Reposition front brake master cylinder hose so as to tilt the brake lever down a wee bit more.

(B) Fabricate riser plates - 13 to 15mm up and back - this may not need doing if 3. makes the difference I think it might.

You can tell this is all still new and exciting to me, can’t you?

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2022 at 02:15

FYI:

https://postimg.cc/VdRrN5V1" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2022 at 02:17

….

5. Trying out 43 and 45T rear sprockets.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2022 at 17:13

Dodgy poor-man’s ABBA stand

https://postimg.cc/TLjvydKv" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/w1PpZ4CZ" rel="nofollow">

Removed link and re-greased bearings/pins….happy to report that they were well greased and the pins were all ok. Managed to only displace 3 of the rollers - what an ‘interesting’ design.

https://postimg.cc/xkz22yYC" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2022 at 17:28

While the Ape was hanging about I managed to get the suspension measurements - an interesting combination that goes someway to explaining the ‘high at the front/slow turning’ feeling?

https://postimg.cc/9Dz2xHny" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/fSwnmGdt" rel="nofollow">

I think, first off, that I’ll go for 25 to 30mm front/15mm rear sag then twiddle each way until I get a happy setting.

I go about 78/80kg in my riding gear and generally err on the soft side and assume that the Ape is a fair bit less rear biased than my old 7R?

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2022 at 18:37

Therefore changes to be made:

Front

preload 1 more ring showing

Fork height 1 more ring showing

Rebound 7/8 turn in

Compression 1/2 turn in

Rear

Preload 9 to 10mm thread showing (odd this as front settings are for a heavier rider?)

Compression 7/8 turn in

Rebound 4 clicks out

Ride height tbd - depending on front feel

Recording this here as I have a nasty habit of losing my notes.

I know suspension is a personal preference but any advice will be welcome.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 19:11

Front adjusted (with the exception of the fork height), back adjusted (with the exception of the preload) accordingly…….de-stickered, waiting for gap in rain.

-------------
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2022 at 13:06

Tried out new settings - better. Got to find a away of getting a front paddock stand to fit - anyone removed the bottom yoke cover? Then I can raise the forks by one more ring (from 3 to 4 showing) and speed up the turn-in.

Plus modify my rear paddock stand to fit the wider set bobbins.

Plus:

Flapper opened - vacuum tube blocked using a biro plug, nice and cheap. I may be imagining it but, it appears to pick up a tad quicker from low revs.

Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2022 at 13:52

You can remove the cover under the yoke but you’ll probably find it’ll run slightly hotter as it’s there to force air through the radiator.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 19:19

42t rear sprocket ordered.

Now I have to work out why my throttle is sticking - not the sort of thing I wanted to discover when approaching a junction in the the wet.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 18:01

42t rear sprocket fitted. Now I find that I could have got a 43t to fit - doh!

During the fitting of the sprocket I noticed that the shark fin was flapping about - the bottom fitting was missing due to the cotton reels using a long m6 - no thread left to screw it in to.

Shark fin removed with it’s top bracket.

Mystery dead handling solved - both tyre valve cores leak - I’ve never come across this before.

Front tyre was down to 31 psi and the rear was 33. From 35/38 - set and checked a week ago.

Removal of the rear tyre cap produced hissing!

Valve core tool and 4 new valves ordered.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 18:10

Sticking throttle fixed.

Strangely the top of the cable housing was rubbing on the cam.

Ran 5W oil down the cables, cleaned the throttle housing and lightly greased/oiled it.

It now snaps shut but the oil’s run down the cables and will create a stink when it’s next started.

Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 15:23

Willintolearn wrote:

42t rear sprocket fitted. Now I find that I could have got a 43t to fit - doh!

During the fitting of the sprocket I noticed that the shark fin was flapping about - the bottom fitting was missing due to the cotton reels using a long m6 - no thread left to screw it in to.

Shark fin removed with it’s top bracket.

Source an even longer bolt, I have a longer 'cotton reel' from the Abba Skylift/Front wheel lift kit permanently fitted on both of mine,I also think I have an additional Nyloc nut wheel side for added security.

-------------
www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 15:35

IanG wrote:

Willintolearn wrote:

42t rear sprocket fitted. Now I find that I could have got a 43t to fit - doh!

During the fitting of the sprocket I noticed that the shark fin was flapping about - the bottom fitting was missing due to the cotton reels using a long m6 - no thread left to screw it in to.

Shark fin removed with it’s top bracket.

Thanks - going to get longer m6 high tensile bolts and fit a penny washer and nyloc on the inside of sharks fin.

I have R&G cotton reels.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 20 Nov 2022 at 12:27

2 x new tyre valve cores fitted.

Front was loose and had what looked like a bit of tyre rubber sticking out of the inner seal.

Rear one outer seal had flattened and was letting by.

Checked both tyres while it was up on stands - both ok.

Note to self:

Must get a tyre inflator adapter for the compressor - using a foot pump is not good for an old duffer who is now too cream-crackered to go for a ride!

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 20 Nov 2022 at 13:35

Shark fin refitted

Found an M6 x 65 kicking about extended the threaded section with a die and used a half nut/spring and plain washer on the back of the fin:

https://postimg.cc/c6NzmmHW" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/T59gqGPK" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2022 at 18:21

Finally got round to eliminating the stator plug in the vee.

Used a draw-through wire and soldered on the stator side then fed it all back though.

Got a pleasant surprise when I lifted the tank too - don’t know which kit it is but applied some rubber grease as it was a bit grubby.

https://postimg.cc/ppPNvZvB" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/crhpLn4G" rel="nofollow">

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https://postimg.cc/JsdSbCkT" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/672gcbVB" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/nXL6jhCj" rel="nofollow">

Also swapped the flapper and clutch one-way valves, the clutch one was letting by and the flapper hose is blanked anyway.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2022 at 20:50

Update:

Airbox upgrade is by AP, bless ‘em

Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2022 at 00:34

Looking good mate, open airbox was a nice little bonus. Just noticed that you have the original clutch slave I've got a factory racing one in silver if you are interested makes the lever less heavy Thumbs Up

-------------
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2022 at 16:37

badapple wrote:

Looking good mate, open airbox was a nice little bonus. Just noticed that you have the original clutch slave I've got a factory racing one in silver if you are interested makes the lever less heavy Thumbs Up

Many thanks for the kind offer but, I am used to a 7R with h/d springs and have a good clutch lever, now that the NRV has been swapped over - I might even try the dual NRV too, to see if it’s a good a mod as it seems.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2022 at 13:09

1 metre length of 12mm 304 stainless steel bar ordered - in place of abba stand - to save me from having to use an Allen key and a wheel nut wrench with my axle stands. Saves about £100, too.

-------------
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2022 at 13:13

Going to have to start replacing rubber things - inlet hoses are looking brittle, as are the vacuum hoses and the clear plastic airbox drain. Good time to try the twin NRV mod. TBC…..

-------------
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2023 at 16:16

Finally got round to doing the double NRV mod.

Just as well as the hose I replaced was crumbling - the worst being the air box drain which had fallen off and was just laying there.

https://postimg.cc/mtMSWnhg" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/Ty2jmY0K" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/5XVS4mFq" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/NLK4pFcT" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/KK9P5SpJ" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/YjTxV7rP" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/hX1bf7LF" rel="nofollow">

Bit of a bodge as I had to get 8mm valves and reducers for 6-8-6 in 4 places.

While I was in there I took the opportunity to clean what’s left of the air box and butterflies….very grubby.

Checked the butterfly screws too, one was none too tight.

Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2023 at 18:05

I've noticed on the few older apes I've had through the workshop recently how much some of the hoses etc have really started to deteriorate but I suppose it is to be expected after 20 years!

-------------
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2023 at 18:33

Question:

I have left the line to the solenoid valve AP8127176

connected with a one- way valve in the end of it and drawn a vacuum on it too.

Is it a 28 ohm resistor that I need to fit across its connections so that I can do away with it?

Thanks in advance.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2023 at 17:31

…28 ohms it was. Made a plug-in module so, easily reversed. Original solenoid measured at 27.6 ohms, in case anybody needs to know.

Weight saving: solenoid and associated pipe work + one one-way valve removed.

Revisit dual one-way valve set up and tidy it up.

Not quite so interesting:

Alarm fitted - uses its own power source - so no parasitic losses, thank you. And: weight gained :-(

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2023 at 16:04

200A solenoid fitting.

It’s a big beast:

https://postimg.cc/fV6Nv0bT" rel="nofollow">

Used a top-hat insulator on the left (having decided to leave the new solenoid isolated from the frame):

https://postimg.cc/xq0SgQ9H" rel="nofollow">

And a countersunk on the right:

https://postimg.cc/5HLMKNH5" rel="nofollow">

Had to re-route the battery cable open up the holes to 8.5mm and connect fore and aft:

https://postimg.cc/DJh39ks9" rel="nofollow">

Final install:

https://postimg.cc/wykYHfQ7" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/xqtV4ZdZ" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: ziskar364
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2023 at 23:05

Nice mod with the solenoid. Do you have the part number or a link to buy one like this.
Wink

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2023 at 17:47

https://simplysplitcharge.co.uk/Solenoids/12V-Solenoids/12v-200a-heavy-duty-solenoid-1023334136.html" rel="nofollow - https://simplysplitcharge.co.uk/Solenoids/12V-Solenoids/12v-200a-heavy-duty-solenoid-1023334136.html

Just be aware that the terminals are bigger so, you’ll have to open up the ring terminal holes.

You’ll also find that the standard (undersized) cables really need replacing too. I’m going to go to 35mm squared. Splitcharge also sell cable and terminals, too.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2023 at 16:21

Next modifications:

1. Relocate solenoid to horn/radiator bracket (done)

2. Make up 35mm2 power leads (done)

3. Remove old power leads

4. Extend solenoid wiring to horn bracket

5. Add headlight cut timer to relay circuit for starting with lights off

6. Make up aluminium battery to power lead right-angled straps

7. Remake 30A + feeds

8. Probably buy an upgrade 14 AH battery too.

…..Will (no pun intended) this ever end?

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2023 at 15:54

All mods now done

35mm sq. cables

Solenoid relocated

Fairing duct cut down

Aluminium bus bars fitted - allows separation of both 30A feeds - easier to isolate circuits

Timer fitted - wired to allow easy reversal, should it fail - set to 33 seconds delay before headlights come on

https://postimg.cc/4nL49TJC" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/cKyLLMdr" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/w3TTMBYc" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/cgd1QxgW" rel="nofollow">

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https://postimg.cc/JHn12p5d" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/PC8qHFsg" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/2bTkGshZ" rel="nofollow">

Slight snag: am pretty sure the battery is sha**ed. Not too sure about the starter motor, either.

Next steps:

Remove starter motor and give it the once-over and test it on the car battery.

Replace battery - I suspect it’s 8 years old so, I can’t complain….just a shame all these faults have occurred at the same time.

Verdict: ape wiring is shocking (forgive the pun) - I have never seen so many dodgy practices - tight routing, exposed conductors and down-rated/sized wires…..to name but a few.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 12:53

All done.

Nothing wrong with starter motor. I may give it a once-over shortly: check the state of the brushes, bearings and commutator as I suspect it’s lead a hard life with having to deal with the old - under sized- cables.

Changed battery to Fulbat FTZ-14S, 11.8 Ah with 230CCA, had to make a foam pad for it to sit on as it’s 20mm shorter.

The old battery was 8 years old so it had done well but, not as well as my old 7R battery which was 11 years old.

Rather satisfyingly the odometer did not reset when the battery was swapped out which bodes well for the mileage to actually be correct. I thought it always reset to zero.

Result:

Press button & instant starting + after a bit, the lights come on: neat.

Next: reset clock & rev limiter light (again) then eliminate embarrassing chicken strips.

Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 15:48

Willintolearn wrote:

All done.

Changed battery to Fulbat FTZ-14S, 11.8 Ah with 230CCA, had to make a foam pad for it to sit on as it’s 20mm shorter.

The old battery was 8 years old so it had done well but, not as well as my old 7R battery which was 11 years old.

Rather satisfyingly the odometer did not reset when the battery was swapped out which bodes well for the mileage to actually be correct. I thought it always reset to zero.

Result:

Press button & instant starting + after a bit, the lights come on: neat.

Next: reset clock & rev limiter light (again) then eliminate embarrassing chicken strips.

Great news mate. A note on the re set it should only do it if you leave the key in the ignition. You did do the correct battery fitting sequence I hope or your new battery will be toast by tomorrow.

-------------
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 16:19

badapple wrote:

Great news mate. A note on the re set it should only do it if you leave the key in the ignition. You did do the correct battery fitting sequence I hope or your new battery will be toast by tomorrow.

Disconnect battery:

Start at the ground

Reconnect battery:

Finish at the ground

Apart from that - I remember open collector rules…..not that anyone uses transistors anymore.

Thanks, though.

Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 23:21

Willintolearn wrote:

badapple wrote:

Great news mate. A note on the re set it should only do it if you leave the key in the ignition. You did do the correct battery fitting sequence I hope or your new battery will be toast by tomorrow.

Disconnect battery:

Start at the ground

Reconnect battery:

Finish at the ground

Apart from that - I remember open collector rules…..not that anyone uses transistors anymore.

Thanks, though.

-------------
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left

Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 23:25

Key on don't start

Wait 30 seconds ( set clock shift light)

Key off

Key on

Start

All good

If you don't do this the ape goes into a weird battery drain mode

Job done

-------------
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 09:20

badapple wrote:

Key on don't start

Wait 30 seconds ( set clock shift light)

Key off

Key on

Start

All good

If you don't do this the ape goes into a weird battery drain mode

Job done

I was not aware of this……what’s the root cause, is it a weird software issue?

And thanks again.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 15:55

After the mild panic caused by the above…..and having now reset the shift light and the clock….all is good - no goosed battery and right-hand chicken strip given what for.

Gentle jog out to Box Hill - no other RSV2s, no 7Rs & too many hardly-movinsons but, hey, whatever rings your bell.

Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 17:15

It's a strange voltage drain that the gen2 has. I don't know the reason but it puts the bike into a mode which destroys a brand new battery in a day! Once you know this it's no big deal and also dispells the myth of the re set bolox. I've tested it on a gen2 that had already re set so I know it works. Pleased I saved your battery after all the effort you have put in.

-------------
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 20:03

This being the case - I can state that I didn’t do the start bit until the following day (eek) but have got away with it.

-------------
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.

Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 21:45

Willintolearn wrote:

This being the case - I can state that I didn’t do the start bit until the following day (eek) but have got away with it.

all good then. Have to say I'm very impressed by your upgrades will be trouble free riding with the electrical " quirks " taken care of.

-------------
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 22:25

badapple wrote:

Willintolearn wrote:

This being the case - I can state that I didn’t do the start bit until the following day (eek) but have got away with it.

all good then. Have to say I'm very impressed by your upgrades will be trouble free riding with the electrical " quirks " taken care of.

Thanks, I am now used to it starting before I’ve let the button go….long may it stay that way.

Having to cut down the fairing scoop seems to have reduced the temperature too, didn’t once go over 82C and the frame is cooler on that side….summer will be the real proof, I guess.

Next: service then ride the cogs off it. Think I’ll do the fuel filters too.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2023 at 17:08

While I’m on a roll.

Removed and blanked flapper.

Removed carbon fibre duct - ‘twas loose and was rubbing on the paintwork.

https://postimg.cc/yJWhckQ4" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/68ML8dhf" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/NKskGNR0" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2023 at 17:50

Should the duct not have a bracket that supports it?

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2023 at 19:17

Probably did have….all bodged and cut/snapped off and was just hanging.

Better gone, IMO.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 26 May 2023 at 16:14

Yet more mods:

I carried out a full service today and discovered that the air filter frame was not holding the front of the element down - it was able to lift clear of the bottom of the air box - 2 aluminium brackets later and that’s that fixed. No pictures until I’ve tidied them up…..I hang my head in shame ;-)

I also found that the magnetic engine drain plug had no washer on it - luckily I had one left over from a Jaguar/Ford steering pump that fitted :-)

I also tidied up the dual one-way clutch valve hoses - the one from the front cylinder was kinked so a bit of rerouting and a shorter silicone hose has done away the faint hiss that I could hear when the lever was pulled - no pictures of this either - due to it being a bit of a birds nest :-(

I also made up a wooden block - from 2 chair leg off-cuts - to wedge in between the rear cylinder and the fuel pump flange - yet again no pictures as my carpentry is, at best, comical :-(

Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 26 May 2023 at 16:54

I lockwired the front of the air filter flange once for someone who didn’t have the additional bar across the evo box kit.

Also what’s the wooden chair bits for to wedge between the base of the fuel pump and rear rocker do?? I look forward to comical pics

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 26 May 2023 at 18:47

wigginsjp wrote:

I lockwired the front of the air filter flange once for someone who didn’t have the additional bar across the evo box kit.

Also what’s the wooden chair bits for to wedge between the base of the fuel pump and rear rocker do?? I look forward to comical pics

The chair bits prop the tank up - far more sturdy than the standard prop.

I will post comical pics when I have, at least, smartened things up. Think I’ll paint the wood in aprilia colours…..no, maybe not;-)

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 27 May 2023 at 16:10

Here you go:

https://postimg.cc/GBwz7M3R" rel="nofollow">

Look at those HUGE battery cables:

https://postimg.cc/VJbDFy84" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/9rkLTmvr" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 27 May 2023 at 16:16

Plus- I found out that the clocks were replaced, under warranty, at 2200 miles…..not the end of the world.

-------------
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.

Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 27 May 2023 at 16:17

Nice!

That’s much better

Going to patent the chair legs with the a logo ? 😆

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 27 May 2023 at 16:26

wigginsjp wrote:

Nice! Tongue

That’s much better

Going to patent the chair legs with the a logo ? 😆

a is for against the tank……I feel a patent coming on - I may even notch the block to avoid contact with the fuel banjo - that could be the ‘super deluxe’ upgraded version.

You saw it here first

Posted By: Steve750
Date Posted: 27 May 2023 at 17:14

Willintolearn wrote:

While I’m on a roll.

Removed and blanked flapper.

Removed carbon fibre duct - ‘twas loose and was rubbing on the paintwork.

What's the flapper mod that you've done mate?

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 27 May 2023 at 21:22

Steve750 wrote:

Willintolearn wrote:

While I’m on a roll.

Removed and blanked flapper.

Removed carbon fibre duct - ‘twas loose and was rubbing on the paintwork.

What's the flapper mod that you've done mate?

Disconnected the vacuum hose, removed electric solenoid, fitted a 28 ohm resistor in place then disassembled the air intake and removed the vacuum solenoid with the arm and flap.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2023 at 16:43

Finally got round to riser plates:

https://postimg.cc/MvVZgYt7" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/t7LCrcdR" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/nX1FhcyM" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/zyNDNRP9" rel="nofollow">

Also changed the fixings over to stainless A2-70.

I now get about 17mm more foot room and only lose about 10 to 12mm leg room.

I have also rotated the clip-ons further forward & the combination means I can ride for about 3 hours and get off relatively able to move my aged hips.

Yes! There will be some de-burring and painting…dunno when but it could happen.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2023 at 15:04

Some more

Removed useless bobbins as my rear paddock stand was too narrow.

Fitted short bolt and spacer through back of shark fin.

Modified rear paddock stand cups - cut down and drilled for captive high tensile screws. M6 stainless button head screws fitted after stand use - to preserve thread.

Cut larger hole around cover under bottom yoke and removed one cover bolt - to enable my Micron front stand to fit.

Bent side stand prong so as to fall in the gap between gear lever and footrest.

And here’s some pretty pictures to prove it - don’t ask about the side stand captive puck - I don’t know where it came from and I haven’t shortened the through-bolts yet but, I did have to trim the belly pan to suit it:

https://postimg.cc/7bF7S0t6" rel="nofollow">

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Some of this will get tidied up and de-rusted…..at some stage.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 17:57

BACK-TRACKING……….

Removed footrest jack up plates (plenty comfortable but boots were hard to move on more-steeply angled footrest serrations)

Removed dual check valve from clutch - reverted to single, as standard (I rarely get out of 3rd gear on my ‘fun’ roads, so don’t have to bang down the ‘box more than a gear - it did work well, when I tried it, but my riding just doesn’t warrant it)

Refitted inlet flap - the PCIII was set up with it fitted - removing it created an unwanted flat-spot.

Fitted clear screen.

Removed clear screen (piece of Ama*on Ch*nese sh*t)

Refitted dark screen

Replaced rear brake clevis bush with a stainless bolt in a copper bush (the original aluminium one had broken and was only located on one side)

Fitted additional heat sink fins to reg/rec (planning to replace it with a MOSFET one in the near future)

Got an MOT

3 steps backwards, 1 step forwards eh?

Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 18:53

I’ve been there and done that on a few bikes.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2024 at 16:31

Fitted the Carmo series CARR5925-SERIE MOSFET reg/rec - temporarily wired in as I’m still waiting for the right connectors:

https://postimg.cc/Jysx7VdX" rel="nofollow">

…which gives a steady 14:06V at tickover - with lights on:

https://postimg.cc/nC1001DX" rel="nofollow">

…indicated somewhat differently on the dash:

https://postimg.cc/w1TFPsX0" rel="nofollow">

As a bonus I made a heatsink for the rear brake cylinder:

https://postimg.cc/tsSDHCDy" rel="nofollow">

Not sure if it works as it’s cold today & the pads need deglazing.

My own cobbled-up T12 stator cooling set-up.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2024 at 17:27

Reg/rec take 2

Made a bracket and mounted it under the seat.

Proper connectors arrived and wired via a 30A fuse.

Had to relocate tip-over switch and 2 x 30A fuse holder.

Once complete it would not start - large oops moment - I had mounted the tip-over switch upside down on its new bracket grrrrr. Now getting 14.4 V with lights off at tickover.

Now for the poor-man’s T12 stator cooling:

Drilled the 24x1.5 hydraulic blank @ 30 degrees - only broke one 2mm drill bit in the process but got there in the end. The other side I drilled and tapped m6 in readiness for the dowty/hose tail banjo which is due next Friday.

The blank fitted like a charm - new viton seal fitted and the orientation of the oil spray is at about 12 o’clock.

I dropped the oil tank and cut the cooler hose to fit the 12x6x12 reducing tee.

Ran the stator cooling hose ‘s’ shaped upto the fan then cable tied it into fairing bracket and down to the clutch slave, blanked it off so that it’s all ready to go when the fitting arrives.

Total cost of this set up is about £23 - well worth if it saves the stator.

https://postimg.cc/gxBjH8M8" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/c6QKGKHG" rel="nofollow">

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https://postimg.cc/jnQCH19S" rel="nofollow">

Anyone want an OEM reg/rec with optional fins - ideal for toast :-)

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2024 at 17:52

Finished though may change the zpp bolt to a stainless button head that I’ve drilled.

https://postimg.cc/fVdt011t" rel="nofollow">

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Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2024 at 17:14

And so it goes on:

Checked for oil leaks after the above stator cooling mod - all dry.

Removed top yoke and electrical part of ignition switch- found that the ball bearings were stuck so freed those then cleaned all the contacts - all showed signs of light scoring - and re tensioned the contact springs.

Set forks in yokes to 4 rings showing - in an effort to speed up the steering to - somewhere near - my 7R

Removed puck from side stand.

Drop rear ride height by 2mm - if reducing the front makes it a bit lairy.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 06 May 2024 at 14:53

Finally got the carbon fibre ‘birds beak’ refitted - courtesy of some blue Peter ally brackets, self tappers and hot glue, doesn’t look too bad, if I say so myself:

https://postimg.cc/Kk5X8xJp" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/q6BPtSFJ" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/VrwQwdBb" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/jCs0knSp" rel="nofollow">

Forgive the grubby state - I’ve had to use it in place of the car which, funnily enough, decided to cook its alternator.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 11 May 2024 at 14:09

ANOTHER REVERSAL

Removed headlight on timer and replaced it with a discrete switch.

Unless you’re prepared to fiddle about with diodes it just ain’t worth the bother.

Lesson learned.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2024 at 15:51

Ok ok ok ok - the reg rec saga continues…..

It now resides under the left hand side of the tail unit - had to lop a bit of the unit off for it to fit and to aid cooling:

https://postimg.cc/cvYh8LSc" rel="nofollow">

She do look pretty though:

https://postimg.cc/Ff4ZbXFX" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2024 at 15:27

Further pictures of reg/rec, discreet light switch, ally washers & stainless banjo bolt on stator cooling also brackets for cable ties for the PC3:

https://postimg.cc/V5sXT0RT" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/jC8yrq3j" rel="nofollow">

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Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2024 at 18:12

…yet another reversed reversal:

Back to dual one-way valves. But this time with a 3rd tee so that the flapper still works.

Reason:

Fed up with wearing my glove fingers out - the mod does make the clutch a tad lighter.

For the aesthetes: it still looks like a birds nest (though slighter better than before) hence no pics.

Out of interest I took one of the failed one-way valves apart - it was gummed up with a light oily fuel vapour type residue - so I got the other ‘failed’ one and flushed it out….voila:it now works. I used 3-in-1 spray so, I guess WD40 should work too.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2024 at 15:41

Fuel filters & not before time. 9978 miles & 19 years old.

Drained the tank using the pressure relief hose.

No water nor debris in the tank.

Sorry AP & Aprilia but I’m on a strict budget…..

Sourced a Bosch filter & replacement Oetiker clips and got stuck in, used a stainless steel jubilee clip for the ground.

Washed and dried the tea bag - plenty of varnish present.

Cut the old OEM filter apart and found it to be filthy - there was a bit of resistance when blowing through it so, it looks like I caught it just in time.

Total spend - less than £19 (for 10 clips + the jubilee + the filter) and the handy thing is the fuel filter is a fairly common one. It’s actually the same one that’s fitted to my car.

The only draw-back is that the fuel circuit took an age to prime from dry - due to the higher volume required to fill the new larger filter.

Fired it up then carried out a full service. Now I just need a dry day or two.

https://postimg.cc/PvYmdV7z" rel="nofollow">

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Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 16:02

Coolant change…..

OAT -38C replacing original OEM stuff - bleed and drain screws on radiator had not been touched (still covered in original paint - to the extent that a 5mm Allen key would not fit).

Prior to change - stationary - fans would come on at 98 and the temp would rise to 105, before dropping to 95 when fans stopped.

After change - stationary - fans on at 96 and temp only rose to 98, before dropping to 94 when fans stopped.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 16:08

Plans:

Replace jubilee and hose clips on stator cooling banjo and oil cooler tee with Oetiker clips - handy as I’ve managed to slightly overfill the oil, and I’ve got loads of the right size clips left over from the fuel filter change.

Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 10:17

Your fuel filter look pristine compared to what my Gen 1 Tuono's looked like after I replaced it! I started to get slight hesitation at higher revs which was why I replaced it. Glad I did as I found the sealant around the pump wiring starting to break up, so repaired that too.

https://ibb.co/WcB3fF1" rel="nofollow">

https://ibb.co/4KgMWrn" rel="nofollow">

-------------
People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2024 at 15:24

Tanks a bunch!

Swollen and didn’t sit well onto the AP Airbox kit seal.

Took the 8mm head/M6 bolts out of the seat hoop/rear tank bracket, and countersunk the holes.

Took the 2 part AP Airbox kit seal apart - heated both with a hot-air gun then sandwiched them and weighted them down to flatten while they cooled.

Refitted the seals arranged so that it curved upwards.

Opened up the tank pivot bolt slots rearwards, to 20mm, then refitted the bracket with countersunk screws - now flush fitting.

Reassembled the whole and now the tank sits lower and slightly further back.

Just hoping that sorts it.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2024 at 15:35

Stevex wrote:

Your fuel filter look pristine compared to what my Gen 1 Tuono's looked like after I replaced it! I started to get slight hesitation at higher revs which was why I replaced it. Glad I did as I found the sealant around the pump wiring starting to break up, so repaired that too.

https://ibb.co/WcB3fF1" rel="nofollow">

https://ibb.co/4KgMWrn" rel="nofollow">

Stone me - that’s filthy.

When mine had dried it just had discolouration due to the varnish - similar to that on the teabag and more noticeable on its outlet end.

Oh well, if nothing else at least I’ve got a new filter on now and I had a chance to inspect the inside of the tank.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2024 at 15:01

Bleeding bleeding rear brake…

What a flippin faff.

Approximately 20mL of air stuck in rear calliper - yes I removed it from the torque arm to suspend it from the man cave roof, jammed the pads with an Allen key then pumped the pedal and wedged a spanner between it, the footrest and the bottom of the clutch housing.

Left it pumped up for maybe 15 minutes then tapped the calliper then let the air out. Repeated same until a good pedal pressure was gained.

Replaced spanner wedging the pedal down for now.

Made clamp to hold clutch lever in slightly - following the advice of ‘Make wood good’ (supplier of EPDM clutch slave seals).

Unexciting photos may follow.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2024 at 17:25

Second clutch slave cylinder seal.

The last one was fitted September ’22 (the first thing I did after purchase) but I didn’t use silicon lube.

That’ll teach me.

Old seal was rigid and ridged.

Definitely not a heat issue - having drilled the carrier and spaced the cylinder off by using washers. Heat transfer from the push rod is unlikely too as that seal was as new.

Bore was nice and smooth too.

Suspect it’s down to lack of use.

Maybe Santa will buy me an Oberon - courtesy of AP? Mind you, those seals are £30 a pop.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 12:54

Willintolearn wrote:

Third mod - work around:

I suspect the PC3 USB was set up with the redline at the default 6000 rpm.

Having now set the redline to 10500 rpm I found that there was a chasm of a dip at 6000 rpm……after a short learning session on the Dynojet site I checked the (now) mid-range fuelling and found it to be very rich****so dialled it back by 2 steps, result: very minor dip at around 6000 rpm and able to pull through it easily. I am hoping that 1 more step off the PC3 midrange will eradicate the dip completely.

Anybody else experienced this?

I can’t see that there’s anything else influencing this as the bike pulls smoothly from 2000 rpm to the (now) red line at 10500.

…….

Gotcha - you basket - a simple (vape) smoke test revealed the culprit to be the AP Airbox lid seal (after 19/20 years) not conforming to the tank under pressure - probably due to tank swelling, mostly.

I reformed the seal, reinforced it with 2 x 5mm neo sheet then forced the tank down and then repeated the vape test - no leaks - all that’s left is to reset the PCIII (which I had made 8% richer***)……when I find my notes re: button/range adjustment…..now, where the h*ll have I put them….TBC.

As a bonus: made a disk-lock stowing bracket and repositioned the alarm - both now, sensibly, under the pillion cover hump.

*** yes - I know - I got my rich & leans mixed up - easy thing to do when you’ve never dabbled with DJ PC before - apologies to those in the know……. :-)

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 16:02

DJ PCIII notes (on here because paper scribbles - apparently - don’t last more than couple of years):

All 3 buttons down

Start - button setting mode

Select ‘MID’ & read value

Tap twice

Stop

Wait 5 mins

Back into setting mode

Check ‘MID’ value has been set

If good - stop

If not - do it again.

etc……

Or maybe I’ll make a 9V battery jumper connection….tbc.

Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 06:51

Excellent work

And great to see you’re still doing stuff with the set backs.

Interesting stuff ref the airbox vape test. I used to like the evo mod previously but switched back to the std airbox lid on the v2’s for concerns over dirt ingress.

As for PC3 dabbling I’d not even know where to start.

Good skills

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 07:32

wigginsjp wrote:

Excellent work

And great to see you’re still doing stuff with the set backs.

Interesting stuff ref the airbox vape test. I used to like the evo mod previously but switched back to the std airbox lid on the v2’s for concerns over dirt ingress.

As for PC3 dabbling I’d not even know where to start.

Good skills

Thanks for those kind words - I just couldn’t bring myself to refit the lid - it’s mapped without and the rooooaaar would be missed.

I also figured that, if it’s mapped without the lid then who am I to mess about with it, I love it’s scalded cat response as it is - I have been told to ‘potter about’ prior to surgery so the old ape is getting lots of TLC - it gives me something to aim for during recovery, too.

Actually the DJ PCIII appears to be quite ‘easy’ to understand so I think a jumper lead and a USD download onto a laptop should be relatively easy to do - then I can have a closer look at the maps for each cylinder.

Odd setup though as it’s got twin Acros and a standard air filter + the AP ‘lid off’ mod, as well as the flapper still fitted.

Next is a full brake service, DOT 5.1 and an inspection of the pads - the rear ones are low and I’m thinking of trying Goldfrens - anyone one else tried these? - I had them on the 7R and, to my mind they were good enough.

I will also treat it to lashings of ACF 50, as some of the fixings are getting furry.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 09:43

By the way - ill fitting tank/airbox seal symptoms - more than likely due to demon ethanol making the tank grow (in my experience)

1. Down curved seal around the filter/headstock end with a dusty appearance

2. ‘Will it or won’t it’ hesitation around 2800 to 3000 rpm

3. Stumble at 6000 rpm that has to be powered through

…..just in case anyone else is experiencing problems out of the blue.

Cure:

2 x adhesive backed neoprene sheets 5mm thick stuck to each other then - after wiping the old seal thoroughly with petrol, stuck to the top of the old seal - cut the centre out to just fit over the AP frame and, about 10mm to 12mm oversize all the way around - also cut the outer front so as to just be inside the margins of the tank (straight across the front just in line with frame bump).

You will have to force the tank down and the front bolts will be a struggle to fit.

I suspect that lifting the tank afterwards may be a bit difficult, too…TBC.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2025 at 13:12

Loud as f**k alarm - home made heavily disguised and only showing the wiring for the ignition killer.

Also unfinished (gash bit of ally) disc lock park.

https://postimg.cc/kRMb9Ljm" rel="nofollow">

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Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2025 at 12:50

Slight misalignment issue & a nice opportunity to use my shiny new breaker bar

https://postimg.cc/kV6kJfxf" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/3yszdm17" rel="nofollow">

Only half a mark out…..not bad.

https://postimg.cc/DSY93tbS" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2025 at 17:46

Willintolearn wrote:

Slight misalignment issue & a nice opportunity to use my shiny new breaker bar

https://postimg.cc/kV6kJfxf" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/3yszdm17" rel="nofollow">

Only half a mark out…..not bad.

https://postimg.cc/DSY93tbS" rel="nofollow">

Dare I ask how the breaker bar went in ?

Also how is the alarm going other than looking like either an IED or you’re smuggling a decent kilo of something.

Does it drain the battery much ?

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2025 at 19:47

I needed the breaker bar as I only weigh 60kg, currently as week as a kitten and an axle nut at a torque of 100 Nm + is just too much.

The alarm is stand alone but recharges when it’s on standby when the engine runs so, no drain & it was covered up to allow the potting compound to set….it does look a bit dodgy though.

Re: battery - coincidentally I have just taken the (newish) battery off for charging as it had dipped down to below 12V, having not been used since last November - it’s taking a flipping age to get up to 50% charge so, it’s looking like I’ll have to invest in a Lithium one sooner rather then later :-(

EDIT: the battery survived after a 15 hour charge. This gives me a chance to fit charging leads and LEDs for the coolant and rear brake reservoirs but, not today……

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2025 at 12:37

Charging lead:

https://postimg.cc/XBGRqCyT" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/Z0WtV1DV" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/rz76bQBc" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/fJX4hYsd" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2025 at 12:03

& in use:

https://postimg.cc/v1yzJsmf" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2025 at 12:35

Those +ve and -ve leads look very close to me, I'd put a cover on one of them. Ditto the Croc clamps. Is your +ve lead fused?

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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2025 at 13:13

I see what you mean the picture makes them look worse than it is though.

There’s actually a 3/4” gap if you compare to the size of the PC3 and the charger and lead are short protected any way.

I could actually use the single lead and put the -ve to the frame…..that would have save me a bit of wiring, too - doh!

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2025 at 15:51

LED illumination- just for the hell of it:

https://postimg.cc/p5nxKBBP" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/5YrbHrLP" rel="nofollow">

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Switched to come on with the headlights - see earlier pic of discrete switch.

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2025 at 15:36

Changed the red LEDs for white….just in case Mr Plod takes an interest & bought a couple of cats - to reduce the vast expanse of black - well, that’s my excuse:

https://postimg.cc/D8fYnNfW" rel="nofollow">

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Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2025 at 22:17

Back on:

https://postimg.cc/bGnQDr7B" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 02 May 2025 at 15:14

Widened my old/cheap paddock stand, also added a brace to stop it wobbling, am more confident using it on my own & don’t have to rely on my stepson being around:

https://postimg.cc/gwDN8S7f" rel="nofollow">

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Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 05 May 2025 at 16:29

Better charging connection, following the observation by Stevex and using the old alternator connectors: https://postimg.cc/yD7tF17T" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/7f3jGGr6" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/w78Sj5PZ" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: Willintolearn
Date Posted: 08 May 2025 at 14:12

More illuminating pictures - white LEDs:

https://postimg.cc/2VQSPMYX" rel="nofollow">

https://postimg.cc/K1m8Ffvc" rel="nofollow">