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Gen1 RSV Remap - Power Commander

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Category: RSV / RSVR / FACTORY
Forum Name: Technical Chat
Forum Description: Any technical problems or useful advise for other owners, remember this is just advice posted here, if you make something go BANG in a big way don't take anyone to court about it.
URL: http://www.rsvr.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=29680
Printed Date: 27 Mar 2026 at 04:53
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Topic: Gen1 RSV Remap - Power Commander
Posted By: oscarb2b
Subject: Gen1 RSV Remap - Power Commander
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2022 at 10:43
So since recommissioning the Gen1, especially on track one thing is very noticeable and that’s a huge hole in the low to mid range, I believe from where the modded header was fitted and never refuelled. 

I know it’s got an EPROM in there but it’s fuelling so badly low down (driving out of corners it really hangs back and doesn’t clear it’s throat until tel:6000-7000" rel="nofollow - 6000-7000 rpm I’m thinking it needs a remap. 

Im not really sure what the boundaries are between eprom and power commander and when it’s more beneficial to remap vs change the EPROM? 

Also, I’ve been quoted £300 for a new power commander map (mapped per cylinder) on the dyno from my local tuner which seems steep (for me at the moment anyway!). 

Any thoughts? 


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Replies:
Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2022 at 10:47
I have put a new fuel filter in (main one) but left the tea bag as it was. 

So not completely ruling out a fuel feed issue but I’m guessing it’s more than likely a fuelling adjustment needed as otherwise the bike is lovely on the throttle 


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Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2022 at 11:50
so what eprom you running ???

and do you have the pc3 connected at all


did you clean the teabag filter at all???

when was the last time you had the throttle bodies and co levels set by someone that knows what they are doing ???


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Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2022 at 13:08
I believe it’s the 100, or whichever one is for just an end can, standard airbox. 

I was just a little confused as to why I would need both power commander and an EPROM but they’ve both been on the bike from when I bought it so just left as is. 

Yes the PC is live and working. I had a fuel pump priming issue after recommissioning the bike which turned out to be to the PC battery Feed on the wrong way around, so that’s how I know it’s working/in-line. 

I’ve never had the TB set / balanced but prior to fitting the collector not had any fuelling issues. 

I didn’t clean the teabag but did replace the main filter. I’ve got a leaky tank so will have to take the pump out anyway, so can always have a look at the tea bag then to rule it out. 


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Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2022 at 14:06
 ok so that’s the wrong eprom if you are running a modded collector you need the fr200, but if the pc is powered what ever that map is will take over.

clean the teabag takes 10 minutes once the pump is out 

try and get the tb’s set up


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Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2022 at 18:04
The FR200 has 2 maps, one for standard air box, one for open airbox. Map selection is via the usual snipped / connected wire at the ECU connector. 
I'm running FR200 with oem airbox (+ modded collector and Giannelli straight through can) and it's way good enough for me.


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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.


Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2022 at 21:13
Agree, I've got the FR200 with modded collector, Devil open can and open airbox. Massive mid range improvement (Mainly collector I suspect) over standard and very smooth roll on from almost any revs over 2k. TB balance did make a difference too after all the mods were installed.


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 10:22
Thanks gents, appreciate the replies. 

I feel more comfortable going for the FR200 route given it’s tried and tested (good to know there’s two maps for the airbox situation too) 

My only concern is unplugging the power commander / taking it offline. I can’t remember but doesn’t it piggy back onto the injectors? I’ve already proven that the bike won’t start without the neutral wire on the battery terminal so I can’t simply remove its power that way (I’m not sure where it gets it’s live from?) 

Cheers 


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Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 11:01
The pc takes its power from the injectors as they have a permanent 12v but a switched earth ( hence the separate pc earth to the batt. )




Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 13:16
Ok cool thanks. 

So unplugging the feed at the injectors (assuming it’s not spliced) and removing the earth at the battery should be enough to disable the unit and allow the EPROM to do its thing?


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Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 14:32
yes that’s correct 




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Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2022 at 18:22
I spoke to PDQ today my other local dyno shop and they quoted £375 for a new map plus any additional time to fit lambda sensors on the headers if needed. 

5 hours mapping time though so you can see where the money goes. 

The purist in me sees the value of the custom map for this bike but the broke young parent side sees the value in getting an EPROM and hoping it’s good enough! 


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Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2022 at 18:58
I paid £200 for a PC custom map via dyno runs on my CB1300, you're paying nearly twice as much. Mind you I'm up north, are PDQ down south?  tbh I'm running an FR200 on my Gen 1 Tuono and I can't see a custom mapped PC being that much better if you get the bike set up after the chip change.

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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2022 at 19:20
Good to know Steve. 

As it’s such a well trodden path and they are still well used, I can’t imagine there are two many issues with it being ‘generic’ rather than made for that specific bike

I’ve wondered if there was ever a back to back comparisons between this and custom mapping 


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Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2022 at 19:26
£375 vs £50 there’s the back to back 

yes it’s a well trodden route that most people are happy with.

yes you’ll no doubt get a little more power with a custom map but the money you save you could spend on a modded collector and throttle body set up 


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Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2022 at 19:36
Agreed. 

It’s an easier decision this way. 

I have a modded collector which is why I need a new map/EPROM!

Looking forward to getting the full benefit out of it. 

Just need to find someone local to Berkshire to do the TB/CO balancing etc. 




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Posted By: Bladerunner919
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2022 at 19:43
Originally posted by oscarb2b oscarb2b wrote:

I spoke to PDQ today


You must be fairly close to me if PDQ is local? I'm in Bracknell.


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2022 at 20:19
Originally posted by Bladerunner919 Bladerunner919 wrote:

Originally posted by oscarb2b oscarb2b wrote:

I spoke to PDQ today


You must be fairly close to me if PDQ is local? I'm in Bracknell.

Yes I’m in Newbury fella 


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Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2022 at 20:41
Originally posted by oscarb2b oscarb2b wrote:

Agreed. 

It’s an easier decision this way. 

I have a modded collector which is why I need a new map/EPROM!

Looking forward to getting the full benefit out of it. 

Just need to find someone local to Berkshire to do the TB/CO balancing etc. 


apologies forgot to look back at the posts 

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Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2022 at 20:44

here’s some feedback from one of my collectors and an fr200 from a guy in Germany 


Modded Colector/Headers and Chip - First Feedback.

Let me start with a big thank you to REDRAT and SOULDADDY as well as Ed at Forza Aprilia for their good advice, and help. Second, if anyone hasn't done this mod - which i find hard to believe - don't wait. It doesn't disapoint.

Fitted the modded collector and FR200 chip last night but haven't hooked up a EGA or messed with the Airbleeds - Plug n Play. Didnt really have time (or the right clothing - i had shorts on, temperature has been around 38deg C all week) for an exhaustive test. But pulling on the Autobahn on my way back from the Workshop, short shifted into second and pinned it at 2000rpms. Where previously the bike would have bucked and kicked and demanded a lower gear, it just went! From 3K it pulled smoothly and cleanly bringing the front wheel up and just kept going. The "dip" between 4 and 6K is gone and the bikeis so fast and aggressive there now i can see me riding more there than higher in the rev range. What a transformation. Money well spent and as always with things like this, why did the bike not come this way from the factory?


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Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2022 at 10:24
I can only concur with everything that has been said about the modded collector / FR200 Mod.

With the improvement to low speed roll on and the complete disappearance of the hole in the mid range fuelling, drive improves to the point you really do not need the upper reaches of the rev range. A PC map  might get 1 (Or 2) more HP at a specific point in the rev range but unless you are racing that is irrelevant.


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2022 at 14:28
Good to know thanks Gents. 

I’ve ordered it from Griff with a few other bits so will do a back to back test and report back with how it feels. 


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Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2022 at 18:17
As a matter of interest what sprocket sizes are you running. On top of the changes youre planning a 16/44 set up will make another big improvement to power delivery. Im running 15/44.

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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2022 at 18:32
Good shout yes, as a matter of fact I’ve just ordered a 15t front from Griff and have either 42 or 44 rears. I might try 42 first and see what it’s like. It’s got to be better than 17/42…! 

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Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2022 at 21:33
Save yourself the effort, go straight for the 44 Tongue

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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2022 at 22:34
15/44 will be a bit lively 

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Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2022 at 23:13
It depends on what you want really. They are over geared as standard for road use but I just wanted it to be a bit more tractable at low speed but not all revy if at a steady speed cruise.

I just dropped the front one tooth and went 16/42 and it did exactly what I wanted. Keeps the fuel consumption sensible too. I might change to a 43 rear when I change the chain.


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 14:56
Just thought I’d share first impressions after getting the bike back together and out for a test. 

I installed the FR200 EPROM and connected the blue/green wire back together to enable the map that suits my setup - Collector and exhaust, standard airbox. I moved the co trims to 12oclock. I completely removed the power commander. 

I also dropped the gearing from 17/42 to 15/42. 

The bike feels nice on throttle response, really smooth and initial opening nice and jolt free. 

Power feels more or less as it was to be honest. The hole between 4-6000rpm is certainly less pronounced and the power delivery feels more linear as it climbs through the midrange towards the top end but it doesn’t feel as bulging as all the reports would suggest so I might have some fuelling issues still. It does feel like it’s still being held back slightly and paired with the fact the rear cylinder feels very warm, warmer than I remember it when riding in wondering if it’s running lean. 

The gearing wasn’t night and day as I was expecting, it gathers pace well but will need to see what’s it’s like on track before changing to a 44 on the rear. I did find myself using 1st less which was the main aim anyway, but some added pep is always appreciated. 




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Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 15:15
The rear cylinder is prone to running hotter as it's not in the airflow and this can result in lean running.

Get the TB's set up properly - by someone who knows how to do it properly - and you will likely see another noticeable improvement. I put all my mods on but it wasn't till I had Griff set up the TB's that it all felt like it came together.



Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 16:17
Thanks yes I’m conscious that could well be part of the reason. Trouble is I’m bloody miles away from him so finding someone locally might be the only option unless I make a special trip. 

Is it even worth trying the other map even if I haven’t got the open airbox. I’m not sure if that’s a richer or leaner map. 

 


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Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 16:28
If it’s for an open air box I would expect it to be richer. 

Of note is it normal to reconnect the restriction wire? Only I don’t think i ever did on any of my gen1’s 


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Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike
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Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 16:51
Ok thanks. 

I read up on the forums about selecting map 1 for my setup when using the FR200, and that meant reconnecting the restriction wire. 

Is that correct? 


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Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 17:42
Yes, reconnecting the restriction wire activates map1 for the FR200. You could try map 2 (Wire disconnected) but if it makes the rear cylinder better it will probably make the front worse.

I would just book it in with Griff and treat the ride there as a ride out, that's what we do anyway isn't it? Get a mate to ride with you and have a great road trip.



Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 18:41
Originally posted by oscarb2b oscarb2b wrote:

Ok thanks. 

I read up on the forums about selecting map 1 for my setup when using the FR200, and that meant reconnecting the restriction wire. 

Is that correct? 

If that’s what’s recommended then yes. 

I never used the FR100 or 200 chips when I was riding the gen1 so it may or may not of been required on those. Dunno, but as legend says have a call to Griff and get booked in. It will feel a different bike once he has fettled with it 


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Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike
Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike
Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020
www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apworkshops.co.uk


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 19:16
it won’t hurt go for it 

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Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2022 at 18:40
Griff’s fitted me in for the CO/TB job on the way up to a trackday on Friday so will report back on on the results. 
He’s asked me to get my exhaust bungs freed up. Apparently they can be troublesome. 

Would you go straight on with a blowtorch or leave overnight to soak with WD40? 


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Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2022 at 19:30
Definitely soak in a few coats of release agent first. PlusGas is better than WD40 if you have some.



Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2022 at 19:46
Thanks, I’ll give that a go tonight and see what occurs tomorrow. I’ve only got WD or GT85 so that will have to do!

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Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2022 at 20:36
Originally posted by oscarb2b oscarb2b wrote:

Thanks yes I’m conscious that could well be part of the reason. Trouble is I’m bloody miles away from him so finding someone locally might be the only option unless I make a special trip. 

Is it even worth trying the other map even if I haven’t got the open airbox. I’m not sure if that’s a richer or leaner map. 

 

Map 1 (with the oem air box )  needs the cut wire re connecting.
I reconnected mine and run map 1, the bike still pulls my arms out their sockets Wink
Those exhaust plugs...make sure you've got a very good hex head socket that is a very good fit.
You really don't want to round them off.


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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2022 at 21:05
Got it, cheers. 

Yes don’t get me wrong it’s lively and strong, but I’ve ridden it back to back with how it was with the old power commander, then eprom with a 2 tooth smaller front sprocket and it’s definitely hesitant in the lower 60% of the rev range 


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Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 12:47
sometimes a little tightening can crack the plugs loose sounds weird 

just did it with a few spare  downpipes and impact driver wouldn’t shift them so tightened first and they cracked then came out 


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Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 16:53
Ok cool, I’ll try that. 

Just confirming these are the plugs on the headers (not collector) part of the system. 

I’ve got Allen key type heads not a nut as such? 


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Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 17:24
Originally posted by oscarb2b oscarb2b wrote:

Ok cool, I’ll try that. 

Just confirming these are the plugs on the headers (not collector) part of the system. 

I’ve got Allen key type heads not a nut as such? 

One in the front header between/under the rad. 
One on the rear visible next to the rear shock. 

Often corroded in place unless maintained and copper slip used. Worst case is to drill them out which is straight forward in situ. Front wheel off for front. 

 



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Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike
Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike
Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020
www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apworkshops.co.uk


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 20:37
Rear one came one easy, the front one is not budging and with only a Allen head I’m struggling to get any decent leverage using various options in the tool armoury. 

If I do drill it out, is it best to use a bit that’s as near to the size of the plug as possible? Or go smaller?




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Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 20:46
Try a heat gun and more penetrating oil. Few times if need be. It may still come out. 
I’d try that until the Allen key rounds it off and that’s when I would give up and drill. 
Start around the size of the now rounded Allen key hole and work up until you get to the size just under the total hole size. I would suggest running a tap through it if you have one that size to clean the threads out. 
If however it all goes horribly wrong, plenty of the front pipes about and usually pretty cheap. 
Reverse thread drill or anti-clockwise, whatever they are known as are good too, as they drill the heat sometimes undoes the thing for you. 
I’m not expert, but I’ve had many a success doing it the above ways. 
As someone said earlier a plus gas releasing spray from halfords or similar, is a very worthy addition to your tool box in any eventuality 👍🏻


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Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike
Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike
Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020
www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apworkshops.co.uk


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 20:59
Cheers mate I’ll give that a go. 

I’ve just done more penetrating fluid and will try with the heat gun tomorrow. The drilling after that I would have thought! 

I’ve got a trackday on Friday and Griff is seeing me on the way up so will most likely have to drill it out if it’s not released tomorrow. The Allen head was starting to round off on the last attempt this evening. 

I’ll get some PlusGas ready for the next corrosion adventure  😋


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Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2022 at 14:35
Been there,had that problem and came to the realisation after having had the front bung drilled out in situ and the thread cleaned up afterwards (Badly on the piss)  that the best way to do things is bite the bullet and remove the front pipe.
It can then by held in a vise using soft jaws and the plug removed using a pair of plumbing Stilsons without any damage whatsoever.
Whoever designed those bungs needs a kick in the nuts,they should have been made with a larger, external hex instead of a crappy 5mm internal that is pretty much guaranteed to cam out when time has done it's thing.


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Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2022 at 14:57
Thanks Ian that’s a good suggestion, I had some of the very pliers out yesterday trying to get some purchase on the cap of the nut but without any luck due to the limited angle of attack. 

I’m guessing to get the front header off means the whole system coming off? 

If I do end up drilling, does anyone know the largest size of drill bit you can go up to to avoid any issues when tapping a new thread? 

**Edit**
Just spoken with Griff to firm up for Friday and he’s said the following if drilling: 

4mm then 6.5mm & finally 8mm bits. Then tapped to 1/8th BSP


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Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2022 at 12:35
Took the front wheel out last night and had a final go at removal before drilling - tried manual impact driver, 18v Impact driver both with heat added and it’s well and truly stuck. Running out of time for removing the whole system to get the front header in a vice so left it in situ and drilled out to 8mm and bought the right size/pitch tap from my local hydraulics shop. 

So she’ll go into Griff tomorrow with a new thread ready to get plug the sensors in and take the readings for the CO adjustments. 


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Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2022 at 19:22
Well what a bastard that was / Is.

Went with the 8mm Drill and 1/8 BSP tap but after over 30 sweaty minutes of tapping still no real progress. 

Spoke with my Dad who checked drill to tap sizes in his little conversion chart and I actually need a 8.75mm drill bit to tap at 1/8 bsp. Brilliant! 

Nearest I’ve got is 8.3mm drill bit so that will have to do 


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Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2022 at 21:06
Anything other than at least the correct dia bit is likely to damage the tap.  

The idea of drilling to the core size is you can then unwind the remains of the fastener thread like a spring leaving the original thread untouched.
Trying to run a tap down with a smaller hole will in most cases at best give a second start and weaken the resulting thread.


And just to further challenge excepted wisdom perhaps someone would like to check a new bung with a thread guage or better yet a shadowgraph as I once checked a new plug in the toolroom when I was working and although I was told it was a BSP thread it was actually closer to M10 x 1mm fine ( standard spark plug ), which would make much more sense being a European engine.

They are very close,in fact it's much like 1/4" Whit and 1/4" UNC , almost the same and in fact one will mate with the other as in a Whit bolt will go in a UNC nut ( or vice versa) but not the other way due to the flank angles being 55o on the imperial and 60o on the American.

Same in this case, BSP = 55o and rounded tooth form and  M10 Metric series are 60o with a truncated tooth form

Just a by the by and in case Aprilia have run out of plugs as they're prone to, Ducati use exactly the same part and it used to be both cheaper and a lot more readily available. In fact I think they even came with a copper washer which  gives a bit more projection for stillsons to grip onto in the future.

Ducati part No:  78020011A   Exhaust Pipe Plug


Drilling and tapping in situ is the cowboy/mechanics solution.  Shocked   Be an engineer ( Ha Stillsons LOL)   I have never known a pair of stillsons to fail, it's not much work to remove the front pipe,3 nuts and a spring as I recall.

 


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Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: oscarb2b
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2022 at 22:13
So after the exhaust bung debacle, which in hindsight could have been easily remedied by a quick reference of the drill size to the tapping size. I know for next time! I respect engineers and their ability to exploit their logical mindset when it comes to these problems but I also respect the fact I’m not an engineer but still get by without putting myself in danger by doing a shoddy job!

Griff saw me early on Friday on the way up to Donington and plugged the Mille into his CO machine for a reading. He said it was within a few percent of perfect as it was. He also said the hydrocarbons were very low so he suspects it’s a healthy motor. 

Although he did say he tuned it (whatever that means!). He raised the tick over speed to help with engine breaking on track and it did make a difference. 

Managed to get to the track in the nick of time, rolled the bike out and went straight out. The bike felt slightly smoother and less hesitant but given the CO levels were pretty much spot on, I probably felt the tweak of the TB more so. 

The gearing (15/42) was a nice upgrade over the 17/42 I’ve always ran. It wasn’t rip your arms off, but just felt more at home on track, and the ratios felt closer somehow even if they weren’t. 

After a few sessions getting used to the new gearing, I felt really good with the bike and starting to understand, possibly this bike in particular, needs a few more revs than i think to keep In that strong area of drive. If I drive out a corner at 5/6000rpm it’s still a little hesitant but add a few more revs it soo clean and strong up top it’s quite addictive! 

I think in conclusion I need to ride around the bikes characteristics more and not look for perfection or utopia. Clearly it’s not the midrange monster I thought it would be after the mods, but it’s still really enjoyable on road and great spanking it on track. 

Shout out to Bridgestone s22 too, they’ve had two fairly hard days on track and some road miles thrown in and I don’t think I will find a better tyre of dealing with both scenarios or performing so well either. Even with the 40 degree air temps on track last Friday there wasn’t any squirming or protesting from either end all day. Who needs slicks?!!



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www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk



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