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Bought a Mile as second bike "just to ride "

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Topic: Bought a Mile as second bike "just to ride "
Posted By: chemomche
Subject: Bought a Mile as second bike "just to ride "
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2022 at 09:30
An year ago i was already tired of building my project bike - 1985 GPZ900 which i bought as non runner. So i wanted a bike that is ready to ride when i have some spare time.
However, as you may expect, my inner voice was stronger then my rational thinking, so the mods started.

I bought the bike in mint condition with Titanium exhaust, BMC filter and ugly Chinese levers as nonstandard parts.



Some googling and reading and it all began.......



Replies:
Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2022 at 12:33
First mods that i did were the usual ones
- upgraded cables
- fireblade side stand
- falco brake lines as i wanted to move the clip ons over the yoke
- new K&N air filter as the BMC has started to fall apart





Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2022 at 12:49
 After the bike was prepared for riding, i did a trackdayCool



I am a slow rider will very few miles on bike last 5 years, but i was very pleases how easy to ride  was the Mille. I was was turning easy, breaking hard and very linear on acceleration, plus the pseudo slipper clutch that kept the back wheel from chatter on downshifts.
I have done trackdays on that track in the past and  one of the times it was again with V-twin(vtr1000f), but it was way harder to ride as it felt heavy and like train not willing to turn.
Last time i was on the track was 3 years ago with 250 2 stroke supermoto and i did similar time on the Mille which on such small and slow track means to me that the Mille is very easy to turn even by an amateur like me. When i was riding the Supermoto i was catching all the sport bike riders in the turns(slow group of course), while now with the Mille i was keeping up with a supermoto guy on the turns and  was actually little faster, so again vary pleased with choosing the Mille as bike to ride.



Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2022 at 12:57
Next on the list was getting the Mille the add-ons that were missing - carbon wings and rear seat cowl.






Posted By: Bladerunner919
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2022 at 13:06
Looking good! How's the riding in Bulgaria?


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2022 at 13:06
With the bike on "sport mode" it was time to get on the track again, but since the was nothing more to be expected from the Mille, the was a lot to be done on my riding skills, so i went to "school" let by a local racer.



He helped me a lot on the race lines as before i was pretty lost on the turns.


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2022 at 13:09
Originally posted by Bladerunner919 Bladerunner919 wrote:

Looking good! How's the riding in Bulgaria?


thanks!
Unfortunately, cannot tell much on the riding as i have very little time to ride - since i bought the bike in last Feb have done 1,500km. But i plan to do more kilometers this year - if not on the road, then form sure on the track.


Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2022 at 14:15
I knew you were teasing us - with more to come!

Lovely bike, looks to be in very good condition



Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2022 at 14:45
Originally posted by legend88 legend88 wrote:

I knew you were teasing us - with more to come!

Lovely bike, looks to be in very good condition




its one year updates since i bought it
i am just lazy to write it all in one post Big smile


Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2022 at 23:54
Great write up

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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left


Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2022 at 23:54
Really smart looking gen1 Big smile

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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 06:40
Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:

Great write up


i have not finished Big smile


After i was pleased with the capabilities of the Mille and got some knowledge on the lines,
it was much more obvious that it is me that is holding the bike to go fast and follow the race line, so
it was time for another riding skills lesson.
This time i went to another trainer and started from the basics - turning and body position.
After one day of doing 8s i was looking like that in the end.


I was exhausted and barely walking, but it was worth it!
For that day, i learned a lot more than 15+ years riding a bike and countless hours watching Youtube videos, so if anyone is in doubt - go on riding school, it is the BEST MOD EVER!

At the end, what was stopping me for progressing more(except the exhaustion) was the tires and the clip ons - i bought the Mille with Bridgestone Blattax BT16, but the trainer advised i need semi slicks and the high clip ons over the yoke was messing with my body position.
So my homework was to get descent tires and get the clip ons back at stock position.



Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 07:06
I did the riding school in September and unfortunately, since then i haven't had any chance to ride due to weather or lack of time, so i was focused on finding tires and doing mods Evil Smile

I found some supercorsas on ebay which i have not put on. The rear is 190/60, so i have some doubts if it will fit without any issues, but we will see.

One more thing that i forgot - i was sitting to close to the tank when training, so i ducttaped and old knee slider to the tank to keep me little back. To make this more "pro" looking i bought some racing seat foam to make a tank pad.


here is the knee slider set up


and the foam pad + some tank grip as the one i had before were not really working

Then some cutting to get it to shape



And since i was focusing on the grip, i added some grippier pegs too








Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 07:53
Forgot to mention, that after the first track day, where i was smoked by every 600 on the straight,
i put the FR100 in. Now i understand that they passed my mainly because my bad corner exit speed, but little more grunt it always welcomed. Not sure if the bike is lot faster with it, but for sure the power is more linear and smooth.




Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 09:40
The 190/60 will fit but you will probably need a longer chain as it will be getting close to the rear of the swingarm, I run 180/60 on mine and it just slightly touches the chain and it’s a 520 chain.


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 11:04
I bought the bike with 520 conversion and 16/44 gearing.
Is yours 180/60 Supercorsa or it is another make? As far as i searched, the different manufacturers have difference in the real width of the tire.


Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 11:17
Super corsa, the chain just nicks the edge of the tyre.


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 11:42
ahh, so it will be worse with the 190.....
may be i should start looking for 180


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2022 at 09:56
With bad weather,  no time to ride and working all day on computer you have all the ingredients to be looking for more mods and upgrades.
Next on the list was open air box!
My idea was to get the rubber seal from the AP Workshops and use the top of my airbox for two reasons - first to save money and second to keep my new K&N filter as if i go for the complete kit i would need also the taller filter with the closed top.
I bough cheap second air box so i could play with it at home without messing with the bike.
With almost no tools i was able to do this se up.





Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2022 at 10:12
With the open box still not installed, i came across a post in fb about i guy that made 3d printed double stack on Gen 2 using a 3d file for Gen 1 as a base.

i found the 3d model got eh gen 1 and started searching for someone to print it
here is the link
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3742217


A couple of local companies were asking 50-100 EURO to print it, which was too much for me to risk. A friend with Mille who has a 3d printer was going to print it, but he had issues with the printer....but then i found  a guy in FB who is starting a business and was doing 3d prints cheap.
He printed it for about 15 EURO including the delivery cost Clap


Here is the result




I am not familiar with the 3d printing, but as far as i understood he is printing it using some kind of resin. He had available at the moment just this grey one with is quite hard, but more fragile and not so resistant to heat, but told me that he has some black resin that is more flexible and resistant to heat.

When drilling the holes for the screws that attach the stacks, there were some small parts that broke of the mounting points, but not so bad. So i ordered the stacks with the black resin too.








Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2022 at 10:16
The black resin stacks were not perfect and came quite bent because of bad packaging, but with some twisting and hairdrier heat they were usable. The black resin is a lot more flexible and i was not scared that the will brake to parts and some will enter the engine.




Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2022 at 10:27
With the airbox seal and the stacks ready, i was doing final checks before putting the set up on the bike, then i noticed that i cut the top part of the box too much and it flexes when i try to tighten the seal and the seal can move which can cause air leak..... i had to find better ring to keep the seal in please.
I first bought a sheet of aluminum and started fabricating my onw ring, but as i mentioned i have very few tools, so it was quite hard and i did not wanted to pun something that ugly on the bike.
I searched the ebay in after a week i find this ring for reasonable price
 



Looking at the ring profile, it was not original intended for open air box, but to be used as spacer between top and bottom parts of the box and in this was increasing the volume. However it did the job to keep the seal in place.
Now i had to find a way to keep the filter in place and cover the top of it.
I cut a round piece from the air box for the top of the filter and the plan was to keep it in place using safety wire....at least as temporary solution to be able to install the set up on the bike.




Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2022 at 10:32
A hour or so with the bike, the set up was looking like that.




Not the prettiest filter cover, but it was keeping the filter in place.
Bike starter with no issues and sounded ok. Cannot tell if it was revving better, faster or worse, but i did not saw any issues.
The weather is cold and i was not able to try it, just did a spin in the underground parking where i am keeping it.




Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2022 at 10:56

First start with the stacks



and with the tank on






Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2022 at 10:56
I know the wire holding the filter is looking bad and reminds of this



But at that time i was not able to think of something better, which actually happened a week after while my wife gave me a clothes hanger from the dry cleaning shop and told me to trow it away....then this came up in my mindStar


I did not throw the clothes hanger away, but used its thicker wire and make this "bracket" - looks better  and cleaner set up at least for me.




Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2022 at 11:30
I know that most of the people do the open airbox mod in combination with collector mod and put FR200 emprom in, but i was not sure if i will be ok with open airbox and FR100 or i should go for FR200. I asked Griff and also the guy that sells the Forza eproms on ebay and both advised FR100.
The Forza guy added that i should consider the collector mod and fr200 in the future(which i actually had in mind), because i will not be getting the correct fuel.
Some time ago, in parallel with the other mods, i was thinking about the AF modulators - those gadgets that connect to the air temp sensor and make the ECU think that the air is colder and in this was make the fueling richer. I got one such AFM cheap on ebay, but it was removed from Yamaha MT.
With some googling, i saw that the air temps sensors are not the same, but they have pretty similar output, so i decided to make some custom wiring and get it on the Mille. And now, with the open airbox and  more air into the engine, it was the time to put the AFM.

I cut the wires to the Air sensor and put waterproof connectors, then put another set of the same connectors on the AFM, so that if something on it fails, i can just unplug it.



Again, i was not able to do a test ride due to weather, but setting it at 5(as advised in the AFM instructions) may be made the bike idle cleaner or it was just a placebo.



Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2022 at 12:58
Interesting Clap
 
Although I've always wondered if the best way forward was to fit a spacer between both airbox halves to increase the volume and still keep the unit sealed as it will then stop hot air contaminating the incoming charge like with all these Evo / Renegade mods.

One mod very common on Suzuki twins is lifting the airbox at the front to increase the capacity under the tank to allow this Wink



-------------
www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2022 at 14:12
Originally posted by IanG IanG wrote:

Interesting Clap
 
Although I've always wondered if the best way forward was to fit a spacer between both airbox halves to increase the volume and still keep the unit sealed as it will then stop hot air contaminating the incoming charge like with all these Evo / Renegade mods.

One mod very common on Suzuki twins is lifting the airbox at the front to increase the capacity under the tank to allow this Wink



The aluminum ring that i got is actually such spacer

I tried to measure the volume that is will increase, by putting it on flat surface and filled it with water and it was not much, about 400ml if i remember correctly, while with the open airbox there is much more space between the top half and the tank to fill with air.
Not sure about the hot air, since the seal should keep it on the engine side and only the air coming from the inlets should stay in the "box"
However, i am not aiming to have "perfect" set up squeezing the very last 0.1 hp possible, but to have linear usable power curve with good throttle response.


Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2022 at 13:28
Sorry,that should have read "lifting the tank" not the airbox

Not as easy to do with our tanks though,given the stretching and deformation we can get in the headstock area. It was just a couple of ali spacers on the Sv but the top yoke had more clearance to start with



-------------
www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2022 at 08:40
Originally posted by IanG IanG wrote:





Won't that set up bring too much turbulence for the air entering the airbox?
You will have air coming from the air ducts, but also air coming from the window between the frame and the tank.




Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2022 at 15:34
Depends I suppose Confused

That Suzuki mod was for airbox removal and two large individual throttle body mounted filter pods. All the standard air intake came via a small letterbox inlet behind the hot radiator so at least it could get some cold air.

On the Gen 1 Apes the air comes via the side scoops but then passes through the 'very hot in the summer' frame rails which is not good as although the std airbox is sealed it's fed on heated air. The Rene type mod which Micah S has proved is counter productive doesn't actually do anything unless you're just after intake roar that makes your ears bleed.

Given the intake limitations on the Gen1 I came to the unscientific conclusions that the best homemade way forward was more efficient air intakes in the nose ( heat and flare the sides out slightly into scoops) feeding into Edwards tubes. From inside the frame rails insert the cut off horns from the later restricted airboot which when relieved slightly will meet the Edwards tubes half way through the frame rails elimimating as much as possible heat soak. The inner cut ends can be modded to then fit inside the flared horns of the earlier unrestricted airboot complete.

That should give the best possible cold air path using std Aprilia parts up the the std sealed airbox. I then did what you did using the top of a spare airbox and cutting away the back half leaving the front with slotted windows to hold the filter down and also clamping a neoprene ring from the Evo mod to seal round the tank.

I intended to follow that up by replacing the airbox lid with a new top half complete but just with a metal spacer like you have ( ironbite?) between and then lifting the tank to give enough clearance for the newly enlarged sealed airbox.

I lost interest shortly after due to other things going on in my life and came to the conclusion that if I wanted more power I'd just get a newer,more efficient bike so that's where my old Mille still is today  Smile


-------------
www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2022 at 08:32
So your thoughts are that not the volume, but the temperature is the issue?
I have some gold heat reflective tape, which i planned to use on the bottom part of the air box, but may use it on the frame rails if this will make any difference.

As stated, i am not after squeezing every last hp possible, but more on the normal operation of the engine and linear power delivery. I went for the open airbox, because i read that it fixes the midrange hole in the torque and i saw some dyno graphs showing it. May be they were with collector mod and the airbox itself does not make such big difference, but at the end i am after smooth working bike with no holes in the graph, even if i sacrifice hps or torque.


Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2022 at 15:55
I think it's all a bit subjective,after all a bhp here or there isn't going to make as much difference as sitting on the toilet before a ride LOL

I do know that ic engines nearly always give more responsive power when fed cool,moist air and so that's what I put my efforts into going after. I've never bothered getting a dyno tune as I'd rather the geriatric engine lived it's twilight years in relative comfort.

Those frame rails get too hot to keep your hand on during the average uk summer? so without the Edwards tubes etc that's got to warm the air considerably I would have thought.

I do know that Micah S over on AF1 comprehensively rubbished the Rene setup on his dyno,how much of that was heat soak I don't know but I expect it would have some bearing.
Also I remember when Renegade was still going they dynoed lots of their systems after fitting and I'm pretty sure most of any visible gains were mainly down to the exhaust mods not the airbox delete.

The best bang per buck on a single can Mille is undoubtedly one of Mark Redratbike's modded collectors along with a modified eprom to take advantage of the benefits,I used a Forza chip but Gabro is possibly the goto man in Europe. All I can say is just swapping the collector and eprom without even resetting the throttle bodies made the bike feel like it suddenly had a bigger engine.

More grunt everywhere and I think it filled the midrange dip that I believe was engineered in by the factory to influence noise/emission regs testing.   I can't remember were I learned that little gem though,could have been in conversation with Micah,could have read it somewhere,but once it gets filled in the bike is so much better to ride.

If you haven't already either got a full twin can system or modded collector I can say with total conviction that's the first steps needed,anything afterwards is just frills round the edges in mho.



-------------
www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2022 at 08:05
The collector mod is on my to-do list for sure - i was not able to get to it this winter, but hope to get it done on the next "winter modifications" period


Originally posted by IanG IanG wrote:

I think it's all a bit subjective,after all a bhp here or there isn't going to make as much difference as sitting on the toilet before a ride LOL


Funny to mention it, because i had some time to "sat on the toilet" last eveningTongue





The plastic blocks that came with the battery turned out to be quite heavy compared to the battery so i put some foam instead - plastic blocks 91g vs foam 15g





Total saving compared to the normal battery
4.696kg - 0.857kg=3.839kg

Even with the OEM tool kit that i put in the rear(700g) it nets as very healthy number 2 in the toilet.Big smile



Posted By: blacklines
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2022 at 10:27
Few other times you can get an 82% weight reduction while also improving the function of the bike. I love how the lithium kicks the motor over and the weight reduction is a bonus. 

-------------
Owen


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2022 at 11:09
You can reduce 3-4 kilos from full exhaust system or magnesium wheels, but both will put you back the price of the Mille Embarrassed
Adding on that, i got the Lithium battery for 50EURO on ebay auction.



Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2022 at 12:38
Definitely a swap everyone should do 

I never thought to weigh the spacer blocks Clap



-------------
www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2022 at 07:29
Last Saturday was the bike season opening, so on Friday i took the Mille home(i keep it in the parking lot at the office) and left it outside for the night to be ready for the next day.
The temps here drop around 0'C over the night and i did not took the battery off - it is brand new battery, i thought it should be ok.

But on the next day, when i turned the key and checked the voltage on the dash, it was showing only 11.8V - on Friday, before i started it, it was showing 13V.
I did not risked to try to start it, but put the battery on charger while i was getting my riding gear on - 10-15mins. Then the voltage was 12v. The bike started as usual, even with 12v the starter was turning ok and 1-2 seconds after touching the starter button it fired up.
So now i am not sure if there is something wrong with the battery, or it was the cold that dropped the voltage or my be it is normal voltage for that battery. During the day i had no issues starting it.


Besides this  "issue", the bike was doing great!
I did not heart some noticeable increase in the noise from the open airbox or the stacks, but it was running smooth....god to go on the bike gathering.


After the bike show, i did a ride with a friend. Getting out of the city took 20-30mins and most of my muscles where already stiff when we hit the open road. The clip ons on the original position under the yoke were not so bad for my back and may be were making my head little lower and not so exposed on the wind. The roads were still cold and every bigger opening of the throttle was followed by wheel spin. However, near the end of the trip, the things were little better and i was more and more close to full throttle acceleration on the straights. I was very please with the power - turning the throttle at 4k, was making the bike pull like train, with constant acceleration up until 10k....no flat spots, not sudden hits. I was so pleased, that i am not sure that i need the collector mod, at least on the road i don't believe i can use more power on the mid range and it will just result in wheel spin, but with some decent tires on the track it may be good :)

One bad experience was the sound level from the exhaust - steady throttle getting out of the city and my right ear was already not hearing very well, keeping the bike between 4 and 8k on the twisties did not make the things better and my left ear got also bad.....end of the ride i was like getting out of the disco club 4am in the morning.....you hear constant noise in the ears.
On the next day, my hearing was still not 100% recovered, may be i need to get some ear plugs.


Second thing i noticed - the front was diving quite a lot when i was getting off throttle.
The bike has so much engine braking, that i was barely touching the brakes, but just roll off the throttle - with the cold road and the rear spinning, i was not confident in the front to push it and be hard on the brakes. Still, the front was diving quite a lot, upsetting the bike.
I guess it was not serviced long ago, i got some pictures from the previous owner with the forks apart, but the photo was taken from the owner before him, so it was not serviced at least in 3-4 years. Also there is thin oil film on the forks, which cannot be considered as leak, but with time i guess the level has dropped.
Other than that, the bike felt stable and solid. May be more stable then before, due to the forks now at 3 lines showing(before i had to move them 5 lines to be able to put the clip ons above) or
because of the oem steering damper, which i put.






Next things on the list - fork service and putting the supercorsas on.
For rear tire, i did some research, and it appear that it will hit the front of the swing arm and i will need longer chain to fit it. Also 190/60 will change the gearing and if i want to keep the current ratios, i need to go from 16 to 15 front sprocket.
There is 4 links piece of new chain i got from the previous owner, which i can add with two rivet links, but not sure if i want to go this way or save some money and buy a new longer chain.






Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2022 at 13:26
This might seem like heresy but I'll put forward my opinion here that I think the Mill'es standard forks are only fit as a mounting for the wheels Shocked

As a suspension medium they stink as standard,far too harsh on compression and bugger all use in rebound,in fact I think the engineers just went to Showa and said ' what have you got on the shelf and cheap that we can have for a knockdown price.'

On the gearing front I run 15f and I think 44r, it's short but usable if motorways don't figure in your plans,this is with a 190/55 rear tyre.



-------------
www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2022 at 13:42
Lithium batteries need " waking up " Which goes against everything we have always done with a lead acid. You need to turn the lights on for a few minutes and that should be enough. I have got a brand new Shido on my 675 and I was impatient leaving work after a night shift last week and it wouldn't start. Left it a little longer with the lights on and she started. It had been sat outside all night around 1 degree. Lithium batteries HATE the cold!!!

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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2022 at 14:36
Originally posted by IanG IanG wrote:

This might seem like heresy but I'll put forward my opinion here that I think the Mill'es standard forks are only fit as a mounting for the wheels Shocked

As a suspension medium they stink as standard,far too harsh on compression and bugger all use in rebound,in fact I think the engineers just went to Showa and said ' what have you got on the shelf and cheap that we can have for a knockdown price.'




May be you are right, but i am not at the skills level, where i can make a differenceEmbarrassed
But fresh oil is a must to have working suspension.
I have changed 6 months old fork oil on my ktm, with like 5-10 hours use and it was looking quite bad, so i can imagine how 3-4 years old oil looks like.


Originally posted by IanG IanG wrote:

On the gearing front I run 15f and I think 44r, it's short but usable if motorways don't figure in your plans,this is with a 190/55 rear tyre.



I am riding at 140-160kmh at the high way as average speed and i am not after more then 200 as top speed.




Posted By: Rich Simpson
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2022 at 12:50
That reminds me...I've got a Millie in the garage that needs taxing and riding.
The slurry tankers were working on the farm this week so it can stay in the garage until next week.


Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2022 at 14:34
Dried slurry on hot exhaust pipes Dead


-------------
www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2022 at 13:10
Some updates...

I tried installing the Brembo 19x20 MC, but with no luck - it was hitting the dash badly even with the adjusting knob removed, so i went back to the OEM MC, which actually works pretty good.



I also went to my first trackday this year.
I do not have a trailer, so i had to ride to the track, but it did not started good, as my rear seat cowl fell just a couple of mines after i went off - i guess i have not locked it properly.
Unfortunately, the two of the mounts that keep the cowl and the base together broke off and i had to use some ductape to keep it in place.

I glued the mounts back together and added some silicone to be on the save side - it is not looking pretty, but i don't want to see the cowl flying again.


Next day i was on the track, with a target time of 1:25 for this year, after i was at 1:30 last time, but now i got a couple of riding lessons behind my back.




First session was a very badConfused....it felt like i have never been on the track and the time was even worse than last time. (best lap at 1:31)
Then i get my mind together and deiced for the next session to take it step by step, starting with running the right gear at each section and being close to the correct lines and it did worked!
After several laps, i looked at my mobile phone and i saw 1:26 as best lap - it was a very good surprise for me, but i wanted to keep myself focused and not do anything stupid. After the session i checked my RaceChrono app and i got 1:25.47 as best lapTongue - target achieved!

Third session - i was again trying to keep myself focused on the gears, lines and adding some corrections on my body position. However, i got into traffic most of the session, but near the end i passed through the pits to get some clear track in front me and my clocked 1:23.32 at the last lap.

In forth session i was pretty consistent at high 1:23s, with best lap at 1:23.18, so i was very happy for the day.
The temps are 33-34'C, so i want for lunch, the did a last session with very slow pace, then i had another 150km to get home.


 




Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2022 at 13:26
Yesterday, i went to check the bike and if everything is ok with the double stack and they look good.
There was just some oil int the airbox, but i guess it is normal.




I also had time to install the Healtech quickshifter that i got some time ago.
It is iQSE-2, which is not the model they list for the Mille and their support stated that i should not try it as it will damage the ECU, but i connected it and i seem to work, at least at standstill - it was raining and i was not able to test it on the road.



Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2022 at 13:44
Finally i got time to take the bike for tires change.
I bought JT 520 chain, as the wheel had to go back in the swingarm to make space for the tire.
But 190/60 Supercorsa did fit Big smile



The rear mudguard needed a couple of washer each side to have clearance with the tire, but it was not hard job to fix.





The bike is definitely higher in the rear now - i am 1.81 and i cannot step fully on the ground when sitting on the bike.



Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2022 at 14:25
On the race bikes I always removed the rear hugger and lengthened the chains to accommodate a 60 profile should I choose. 
When it got hot it could start to rub in the swingarm on a standard length chain. 

Interesting on the healtech QS isn’t it. 


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Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike
Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike
Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020
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Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2022 at 16:34
Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:


Interesting on the healtech QS isn’t it. 


I had the chance to test it on the way for the tires change and it seem that kill time on the crank is way different than the one on the coils, becuase i have set it at 90ms(to be on the save side, adn then to start reducing it), but it was way too much. The bike died in motion for 1-2 seconds and then went back on. However the bike did changed the gear without the clutch and with the throttle opened, so at least the shifter sensor is working ok.
There is Supplementary manual for installing this type of QS on SRAD advising that the kill time on the crank should be 40ms and not 80ms as on the coils, so next time i will start with 45 or 50 ms and then reduce for fine tuning.



Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 08:35
Tried to test the QS again with 45ms kill time, but the bike died at a stop light and would not start before i turned off the QS from the app, so i will not deal with it anymore....

I did another riding lesson and trained changing gears with no clutch, but just off throttle when changing and it works pretty well - much faster and cleaner then using the clutch.

With the Supercorsas i was now able to push a little more and finally touch sliders several times.
The bike also turns in a lot faster with the 190/60 rear.
Stopping was also better and more confident then with road tires.



Forgot to mention that i put some Gilles last week :)





Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 12:45
most quick shifters are set to 65m/s 

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Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 12:58
Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:

most quick shifters are set to 65m/s 


may be you did not read the previous posts.....

this one is not cutting the power to the coils, but interfere with the pick up from the crank
therefore the kill time is almost double - 40 at the crank is about 80 at the coils

however, there may be other issues with the sensor or noise filtering, so i will not spend time to try to make it work


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 13:47
apologies … i know the routing of the wiring can cause issues 

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Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2022 at 14:24
Did another trackday on Saturday Cool



Bike is now with Pirelli Supercorsas and PT radial MC.
Everything seem to work perfect and there is nothing more needed from the bike to fit my riding skills. I also put some race foam on the seat, so that my bud does not slide.



Also got a deal on Falco carbon front fender, which is matching the carbon winglets





Unfortunately, the rear tire is done and i should be saving money for new one over the winter.







Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2022 at 14:33
some more photos....








Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2022 at 13:20
Nice pics Clap


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Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2022 at 15:04
Originally posted by IanG IanG wrote:

Nice pics Clap

 
paid 15EURO for them Tongue


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2022 at 16:19
Originally posted by chemomche chemomche wrote:


In forth session i was pretty consistent at high 1:23s, with best lap at 1:23.18, so i was very happy for the day.


After the 1:23s on previous trackday, my target was now 1:20s.
First session i did again 1:23 as previous trackday, but then on the second i did 1:19.733Tongue
Target for the year was achieved! Next sessions i was just having fun and trying to look pretty for the photos Pig

Third session - 1:19.707
Forth session - 1:19.565 and hitting false neutral changing from 3rd to 2rd, that made me go almost out of the track
Fifth session - 1:23.726 - i was already pretty exhausted and was stuck in some traffic....plus missing a shift on the straight
So it was time to go home - happy with how the bike performed and happy that i achieved my goal for 1:20.


Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2022 at 04:20
Looking good there and a very satisfying drop in lap timeThumbs Up

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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2023 at 15:02
Some months passed since i did anything on the bike.
A couple of weeks ago i put some afteemarket fuel cap that had bought for my other bike 5-6 years ago and it did fit the Mille.



Unfortunately, the i turned the key, there was no sign of power on the dash or hearing the fuel pump/relays. The battery was drainedOuch
I took the battery off, get it home and mesured around 2.5V. Got it on charger and it charged with no problems. But i guess there is some drain on the bike, or since the dash is using power and the lithium battery is only 4ah, it was normal to drain the power in 3-4 months. Not sure, but i will be removing the fuses or getting the battery out when i am leaving the bike for long time.




Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2023 at 15:22
Since the new riding season is approaching, i checked took the bike for service + some more things that had to be done:
 - engine oil - i ahve done only 1500-2000km, but since most of them were trackdays i wanted to be ready for the new season.  Plus the Mutul was not feeling good on gear changes and i had some missed shifts, so i wanted to try different brand. I had good deal for CASTROL Power 1 4T 15W-50 nd went for it.
 - fork seals and oil - i don't know when was last time the front was serviced, but i am sure it was not done last 5 year
 - exhaust packing - the can was pretty loud and i was pretty sure the tone was not right, so it needed repack
 - rear tire - the supercorsa was done, so i went for Dunlop D212, 190/55 - it should last longer i hope
 - collector mod - i wanted it for long time, but did not had the time or money for it, so when the guy at the bike show told me that he can do it, i gave it a try.
Plus i got the FR200 already waiting :).






For the collector mod, i was not expecting that result, but i did not specified the pipe shape and diameter..... There was also short pipe(not in the picuture) done with 90 degree bent with 40mm diameter.



The bypass pipe is 50mm....looks too big from what i read, but i will give it a try.


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2023 at 15:39
Getting the bike from the bike shot to the garage(2 min ride) i noticed that fiding the neutral was a lot easier, even on stand still i was able to get neutral from first click with no issues. I guess changing to Castrol was right decision.
Collector mod..... well the sound of the bike is different, no sure if it is the repacked can or the bypass pipes, but it does sond different - like the rpms are higher. I even tried to get them dow a little, because i was thinking that they went up because of the mod, but even at about 1200rpm, it was sounding different and not like V-twin chopper as before.
As of the power - it is cold here and so short ride cannot tell much, but at least i did not noticed any hesitations or holes in the power delivery, keeping in mind that i have not installed the FR200 yet.

I am  hoping for better weather, so i can do a real test run.


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2023 at 08:27
collector mod quietens the exhaust for sure 

did you only get the front mod done on the collector , that’s ok for low down power but get the rear one to help with higher rpm they work together 


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Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2023 at 10:44
As far as i read, the front pipe(longer one) is dealing with the mid range, while the rear one is helping the low end. There was a post from Gabro saying that the bigger the pipe(front one) the bigger effect it has on the mid range, but in trade of low end and high end power.
Yes i made both pipes, but the front is using pipe 50mm, while rear one is 40mm ID elbow.
The picture was done before the rear one was done(the guy was searching for stainless steel elbow in the local shops).

I am not after perfect set up and max power in all the revs, but smooth powe deliveri with no lags in the power. Also i needed the mod, because of my open air box and twin velocity stacks....with those i need the fueling of FR200 eprom, but i cannot use it without the collector mod.


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2023 at 14:05
this is what the pipes do

the different diameters will have an effect on that 

i have been selling modded collectors since 2009 

you will see approx 10bhp in the midrange restoring the flat spot 





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Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2023 at 14:34
Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:


i have been selling modded collectors since 2009 


I know, iread most of your post on the topic Tongue


I have the original Titanium EVO can, but i cant stop my mind thinking of putting something extremly short like SC/Austin Racing or similar Evil Smile

I know that the rsv does not like the stubby cans, but the collector mod make it possible to use such can with little power losses.
I actually got some Akra GP can from 2022 GSXR, but it was not straight fit, so i decided to sell it and use the money for servicing the bike.....but it would have been good to be able to hear the Mille with it.






Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2023 at 07:47
although a modded collector does help with a short can you’ll still owe power over a long can 

but it’s your bike your rules 


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Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2023 at 08:05
If it is the same power curve(no dips and lags), but some ponnies down i will be ok
it may even help me be more brave with the throttle on the track Big smile

but the short can will be just for fun...i will like to hear it, but i am not fan of loud pipes and even the Ti EVO is little loud for my taste

btw i weighted the Ti  EVO can, it is 2,727kg,  about the same weight with the Akrapovic can with stainless steel link pipe, which is pretty good...still the Akra GP can on the photos is only 762gr Shocked


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2023 at 09:40
Got some time last evening to work on the bike.

FR200 now installed

FR100 was quite hard to get out and i bent a couple of the eprom legs doing so, but i guess i can bend them back in position if i need it in the futuer(i hope not).
First ignition on i did not hear the fuel pump prime....tried second time and again no sound Cry
Then hit the starter for a second and after that i could hear the pump prime.....what a relief.

After the eprom, i replaced the intake boot with the older stype one.

I made a couple of seals for it from 5mm race seat foam








Whis everything in place i took the bike outside and started it.
It started easy, as usual. The engine was sounding smooth. But it was very cold for test ride, about 2.5'C so i let it warm up and the take the bike back to garage, waiting for better weather.

When i took my bike from the bike garage, where they did the service, the guy told me that my front pads will need replacing.
I got a set of Accossato ZXC pads sitting in my basement, but they are for one disc only.
I checked with the guy and he told me that i can use different brand for the other set as soon as i put the same brand(compound) on the same disc. I also found that SBS advise the same - to use different compound ot the two disc to modulate the stopping performance as initial bite, feel and stopping power.
So i ordered a set of EBC HH pads for the other disc. They should arrive this week.

However, since the Mille got 4 pads per caliper, i may go for 2 EBC pads + 2 Accossato pads per caliper, but just keep two opposite pads from the same brand .
Thinking of putting the EBCs as first - the one on the bottom of the caliper, so that they hit the disc first and work on lower temps, while the  Accossato work at higher temps and will be working on the already heated disc from the EBCs- the ZXC is "race use only" compound ......does that make sence?




Posted By: Rich Simpson
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2023 at 10:45
I'd stick to one type per side: wear rates may differ and particles from one type of pad may contaminate the other.

EBC HH pads appear to have caused the EBC discs on my KTM to warp...no such trouble since switching to the resin-based black EBC pads (but they are 'not for track use')


Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2023 at 11:32
Originally posted by Rich Simpson Rich Simpson wrote:

I'd stick to one type per side: wear rates may differ and particles from one type of pad may contaminate the other.



good point!

my current pads are EBC HH(the ones i bought the bike with) and i have not noticed any issues




Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2023 at 14:43
Last Saturday was bike season opening so i got the bike out.
I haven't riddent it since the collector mod, FR200 eprom and the bigger air boot and was really interested to see what difference those made.
Firing the bike and getting first meters on it, i was just able to hear the different tone of the exhaust and how smooth the bike was down low - i could cruise art 2-3k rpm in 3rd gear and when i begin  to accelerate the bike was smooth as butter, while beffore it was chattering and vibrating as diesel car in wrong gear.
Still, i was not hearing much difference from the bigger airboot, but it was very gentle and smooth with the throttle. Then i tried to open 1/2-3/4 throttle while on 3k-4k and i heart the roar of the beast Evil Smile
The intake sound was stronger than the exhaust!
Opening the throttle at 5k was giving instant kick - no hesitation, no delay.
The bike runs better for sure.....how much better i will see when i hit the track.


There is one thing that i noticed, which seemed strange - when i get back from the ride, the oil level was over the MAX and very close to the top of the "screen"(if you call the tube  screen).
It was raining while i was getting back to the garage, so i was riding slow and the engine temp was about 75'C, not sure how this affects the oil level since it should be check as engine in working temp - 90'C.
I thought the guy, who changed the oil has overfileld it, but i see  about 400ml leff in the oil bottle, so there not more than 3.6l in the bike.
Letting the bike cool 5-10min dropped the leve a couple of millimeters, but still way over the MAX level.
I was looking at the oil lever with the bike on back paddock stand, but getting the two wheel on the ground had minimal to no effect.
Should i get some oil out with a syrgine?




Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2023 at 17:06
yeah suck some out



you’ll notice the punch out of corners with those mods , it’s so surprising


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Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 10 May 2023 at 14:13
I did a track day last Sunday, first one for this year.

I have put duoble bubble screen(not sure if i already mentioned it) and it is worth every penny!
Going on the highway to the track was a lot easier and effortless compared to before - a lot less wind hitting my head and no issues when moving my head to check the mirrors, while before it was quite hard to achieve.

Bike feels a lot smother on the low revs now, no chatter or hesitation on cruising at 2-3k rpm in any gear.

On the track it felt good - no issues or drawbacks.
No sure if i felt much more power in the midrange, but it was pulling smoothly at all revs.
On time at first laps i hit the throttle harder and the front lifted, causing a little headshake when getting back on the ground, but the steering damper worked it out and it was nothing to warry about. However, i thing this made me be a lot more gentle on the throttle.
I was making 1:20-1:22 times, similar than last trackday and one time 1:19.73, while my best time before was 1:19.71, so the same, but i was not so consistent.
Not sure if it was the traffic(there were quite a lot bikes in my group) or becuase the bike was pulling harde, i was getting sooner on the brakes.....to add on that the new pads made the brakes even better so i was braking sooner with more stopping power Confused
I could go off the brake way before the apex, but was keeping little braking to have weight on the front.
Looking at the data from the RaceChrono, i was at 175-180 at the straight, while before i was 180-190km/h....beleive it was more due to early stopping then lack of power.
I had again a couple of missed shifts - i guess i get lazy at my shifts, so in 3-4th session they start to appear.
It is quite scary, becuase at the end of short straight i need to downshift 3rd to 2nd before S-turn, no brakes and when i miss the shift and hit false neutral the bike is unstoppabele and heading to the gravelPinch
So i loose time again, because i got scared and do the downshift earlier and loose 10-15km/h top speed(i did 125-130 while was time it was 140-150).

Overall i am happy.
This was firts time i used tyre warmers and it is good that i did not loose any laps for getting heat in the tyres. I had ti trim some of the chain guard to get them in with the 190/55 tyre.

Things to work on on the bike - may be check if i can get the shifting mechanism  work better.
Nothing more on the bike, just me and my riding skills.




Posted By: chemomche
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 10:44
Looking at the data from the RaceChrono, it does make sense that the bike is better in acceleration and stopping power.

1 RED is the best lap from last year
2 BLUE is this year best lap

I know that top speed is less, but Acceleration and Decceleration are about 0.5s better.





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