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Waterless coolant

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Mad Dog View Drop Down
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    Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 14:24
Hi all.
Was wondering if anyone here uses or has used any of the waterless coolants in their bikes. My gen2 was running a litter hotter than usual in the good weather and thought I could drop the temperature a bit buy using a different coolant.
Many thanks
MD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hangry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 14:35
Hey dog no not used that a lot of people saying it's a waste of money I used Prestone ice cooler in mine seems to be good for about a year so far even with the new setup Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hangry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 14:41
Soz its putoline Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mad Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 15:08
Yeah. I hear it can drop your temp by 4 or 5 degrees.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 15:25
Try coolant less water. Deionised water from Halfords. The higher the % water, the better the cooling ability. Best if its all water and no glycol. Then in winter drain and replace with cheap 50/50 coolant so it doesn't freeze.

Also, if temps have just started to rise for you I would check you don't have a leak, allowing air in. 
Owen
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 16:50
I'm waiting for a heated debate a la Delboy v Matt @ The Workshop over the supposed benefits/snake oil properties of Evans 


   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 17:01
My local shop stocks this and I’ve used it in a few bikes now, does what it says.
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/rock-oil-iced-kool-engine-coolant-rociced/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hangry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 17:33
Lol LOL I was going to say wait for the debate bin a wile hehe hay just use a good tried n tested 50/50 motorcycle antifreeze that's good with ally/magnesium you be good to go,4/5 degrees  lower this n that tatall bs,these engines run hot when in traffic or hot weather that's just the way of the beast my fans cut in at 97 then cool it down if in traffic if I'm going over 50mph it's about 76/77 soz wine taking over Thumbs Up cuz I'm bored.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mad Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 21:12
Thanks for the replies so far. My bike was running 79-83 on the open road, usually runs about 76. Thought the idea behind waterless coolants was it raised the boiling point causing better contact with the internal waterways and conducting the heat away, rather than having tiny bubbles of water vapour.
Am I wrong or misguided in my thinking.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 21:44
Owen
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 22:12
Nice find,very interesting read and I suppose pretty much the last word in unbiased opinion Clap

Also pretty much the conclusion Matt put forward on his channel during his rant about Delbollox and Evans Waterless crap.

If it's good enough for the ACU it'll do for me

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mad Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 22:47
Interesting read, but my bike is used every day summer and winter therefore continual draining and refilling is not on the cards. Not all of us have our bikes as track day machines and rack up miles in traffic and open road riding, my ape has just passed 70k.
Thanks for the info though.
I've learned something new here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 10:36
In which case you could go 60% water 40% coolant. But really if there's no air locks then it should be OK with any coolant. One bizarre thing I find was that running the bike without the plastic plate under the bottom yoke would make the bike run a few degrees hot. I'd taken it off at some point when using a headstock stand and not bothered to put it back on. Then wondered why it was running a few degrees warmer. Turns out it's not just plastic tat and actually designed to keep air flowing through the radiators. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 10:39
Air and fluids will always take the path of least resistance it’s why radiators on cars are shrouded, take the shroud off and the air will flow around the rad.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 10:42
Keep coming back to the fact you said its just suddenly started running hotter. It sounds like you do enough miles on it to detect changes like that. Did anything else change in that time? Does the throttle response feel the same as before? Just thinking that if there's no coolant leak and the engine feels a bit different then maybe you have a vacuum leak causing the bike to run lean/hot. Long shot maybe but you'd think something has happened. Or radiator cap not holding pressure anymore? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 12:18
Yes, I almost fell for the Evans hype but clearly if you think about it from a technical standpoint the waterless coolants just mask a problem that exists somewhere in the cooling system.

If they were needed to keep an engine safe in normal operation, all of the manufacturers would be recommending them - and using them as standard.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 12:31
A bit like giving you free nitrogen when you pump up your tyres LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mad Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 12:39
Originally posted by blacklines blacklines wrote:

Keep coming back to the fact you said its just suddenly started running hotter. It sounds like you do enough miles on it to detect changes like that. Did anything else change in that time? Does the throttle response feel the same as before? Just thinking that if there's no coolant leak and the engine feels a bit different then maybe you have a vacuum leak causing the bike to run lean/hot. Long shot maybe but you'd think something has happened. Or radiator cap not holding pressure anymore? 


The bike does seem ever so slightly sluggish in the low rev range and then picks up at about 3k rpm. It also pops and bangs more than usual on overrun. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 12:45
Assuming you haven't made any changes yourself, could look at the air box for any hoses that may have popped off. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mad Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 14:12
Yeah will do, will also check small neoprene pipe between throttle bodies.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hangry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 14:17
Does seem strange,you use the bike a lot so you would definitely know when something not quite write,when was the last time the throttle bodies synced?also plugs n fuel filtersThumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mad Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 17:34
Filters and plugs about 3 months ago, throttle bodies.... can't remember.
Not looking forward to taking the tank off though, it's expanded and needs tyre levers to put it back on.
Is there any info on here about balancing TB's
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 17:51
First plug your gas analysers into the exhaust pipes Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hangry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 18:08
Think to do it properly you need the axone and as Ian says a gas analyser into both bungs on header so best to probably take to a shop,regarding the tank I know your pain lol I took mine off a couple winters back and it shrank back to size Confused I now empty fuel out when not using it bin good so farThumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 18:52
I think start with more obvious things, like a hose that's fallen off a port underneath the air box. Or maybe the vacuum line for the PPC slipper has come off the clutch cover.

Throttle body sync is unlikely to have any effect on temperatures. CO trims yes, though on the gen 1 it's impossible to knock it by accident and I'm not even sure the trim pots are on the gen 2. Keep it simple to start with I think. It's far more likely to be a fallen hose than a MAP sensor failure or something. And still could be some air in the cooling system. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hangry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2020 at 09:06
Ah yes do what blacklines said first thought you had Thumbs Upbut if running a bit funny at low revs a good throttle body sync can sort thatTongue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prsv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2020 at 10:13
Prime suspect would be cracked inlet rubbers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mad Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep 2020 at 21:42
Sorry to have bumped this thread.
Because I am now in lockdown I am gonna remove the rad and reverse flush it.i looked at the coolant and there seems to be like an orange mist in it.
I assume this is rust particles so the system needs a good flush from top to bottom and whilst the rad is off I can clean and straighten the cooling vanes/ fins and give it a quick coat of heat resistant Matt black paint.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2020 at 01:42
AF1 sell a thermostat for warm countries that will make it run a little cooler if that is what you want. To that is what my gen two runs at, in traffic I have seen it at 105,but I reckon the fans cut in too late anyway. I  have similar in my R 1👍
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2020 at 09:24
The RSV4 race manual shows how to just remove the thermostat gear and have it running all the time. The water pump that is. Though with a stock gen 1 I think it's perfectly fine from the factory. 75 on the open road, 95 in traffic and normally 80-90 on track.
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